Shimano Fishing License Holder - w/Lanyard

Water-proof & Comes with a Lanyard with Shimano Logo

The Split shot rig is a finesse version of a fish finding rig along the lines of but not quite the Carolina Rig. Too many anglers dismiss this method as being too slow or a small fish method. The truth is that it is a deadly finesse method that can cover water as efficiently and as quickly as the Carolina rig. The split shot method also is a great way to catch limits of keeper sized bass. What tournament angler could dispute the success of that? Split shotting is a fairly shallow water finesse technique that works best in depths under 20 feet. It can be worked deeper but the sensitivity decreases as the depth increases. For anglers who arent confident in their worm fishing abilities, the split shot rig is actually nothing like traditional worm fishing.

This method is a cast and crank method that can be more easily compared to crank bait fishing than to worm fishing. The tiny 4inch curly tailed worms are in constant motion on the bottom so it might be even more effective than cranking because the bait stays in the strike zone longer. However simple this may sound, you can increase the effectiveness of the technique by seining the bottom. By this I mean using different casting angles and boat positioning to essentially saturate a grid or area. This way you can potentially present the bait to every fish within a determined area.

Not Just Another Carolina rig

The Split Shot may resemble a Carolina rig but it is different. To tie the rig you must eliminate the bullet sinker. Instead, you just crimp a piece of shot, two or three feet above the Texas rigged bait. I most often distance the shot about 18 to 24 inches above the bait. It is important to use only round shot without the tabs. The tabs will always catch on the weeds and foul the rig. Use size 2 or 4 shot. Make sure you dont fray the line when you crimp the shot down on it. I prefer softer shot to prevent damaging the line. Water Gremlin, makers of weights and sinkers for fishing has introduced its Bull Shot. This is a bullet weight or conical shaped weight with a new twist. Like its famous squeezable split shot weights that crimp on to the line, Bull Shot weights have the same premise. Here you can place your bullet weight above the hook in any desired length. Just squeeze it on and it will stay in place. Gone are the days of multi knot rigs. It is a quick and easy way to rig up your soft plastics. This may be the best alternative if avoiding weeds and snags are your concern. The pointed shape comes through snags with ease and takes this rig to a new dimension.

This is a true finesse rig. Using this rig requires an angler to scale down his/her tackle. A four-inch bait is about the largest an angler should use. Employ a size 1/0 or size 1 Aberdeen style hook. Rig the bait on the seam. This along with the Aberdeen hook is a straight shank style and creates a keel to prevent the bait from rolling thus eliminating line twist. That is the key to the natural swimming motion of this bait. Fine diameter line and light spinning gear are necessary for this technique. I use a 6 or 6-6 foot ML spinning rod and 6lb test for this technique.

Employ the split shot rig when fishing in depths shallower than 20 feet. Any deeper and youll lose contact with the bait. The split shot retrieve is slow and steady. Maximum bottom contact is essential. You simply have to keep the weight in contact with the bottom. This technique is perfect for locating concentrations of bass. Especially when coordinated to cover a specific area from multiple angles. Because the bait is always in motion, wind won't hamper its success. Wind can put a serious damper on regular worm fishing such as a Texas rig. The split shot rig is less affected by wind because you are constantly moving it.

Split shotting is deadly when fishing used water. If I'm fishing behind another boat, chances are that I am throwing a split shot rig to the water that has already been covered by that boat. The split shot method excels in heavily fished waters. That is the beauty of this method. One area in which this method excels is locating fish around uninteresting areas. Most anglers will beat visible cover or structure they see on their LCDs to death. While you can catch fish in these places on split shot rigs, the rig may be better suited for use in boring areas without heavy cover. These boring areas are usually passed over by other anglers and they likely dont receive any exploration because those anglers cant see anything attractive to hold bass.

One particular day I was on an 85 acre pond that was hosting a bass tournament by a local B.A.S.S. chapter. The water was crowded with 15 or so boats and all of the water was used up. Immediately I rigged a split shot worm and I proceeded to catch a limit of decent bass. From what I heard, the participants didnt fair as well. This proved to me how valuable an option this rig is. It took fish in water that was used by skilled anglers. This rig is a good choice when trying to locate fish on an unfamiliar lake. It is often the first tactic I'll try on new waters. When a cold front is passing through the split shot may be the only bait that gets consistent attention from bass.

Anglers must learn to recognize the strike on a split shot rig. It differs from the telltale tap-tap of the Texas rig. The split shot bite tends to feel like a mushy sensation or the feeling of added pressure on the line. Bass do tend to hold onto the bait a bit longer than traditionally rigged worms. The lack of a sliding weight for a bass to feel in its mouth likely is the reason. This set up is just more natural. As with many of the techniques in this book, it might be best to learn what the rig feels like being retrieved unimpeded. Because you will be bumping of bottom with it, you may be in for a tough time recognizing strikes. Just remember that hook sets are free and if you feel anything out of the ordinary, swing on it. One caution with this rig, because you are using light line, try to sweep set the rod sharply to one side of your body. I utilize a set similar to the Slider sweep. You do not want to pop your line by setting too hard with the tiny line. Bass seem to hold on to the bait because of the weightless feeling coupled with the small amount of slack line between the split shot and the bait.

Hand poured worms along with standard grubs, reapers and lizards work well on a split shot rig. One of the best worms for this is the Curly Tail worm from Robo Worm. This is made specifically for the Shot techniques. This is a tiny 4 inch worm that features some wicked hand poured colors. It has a curly tail that is rigged tail down to offset any line twist by being inline with the keel that the Aberdeen hook creates. The worms are scented and salted and bass simply do not drop once they once them up. Ive been using some of the new Cyberflexx baits that really float high off the bottom on this rig. They are very effective and this is a good way to seine the water. The floating bait opens up another dimension to the split shot rig. Now you can cover water above the bottom. This is helpful when fish are suspending a few feet off the bottom.

Anytime is Split Shot time

An angler should recognize the best times to use this method. I use it as a fish finding tool on unfamiliar waters. If you put an easy meal in front of any bass, it is going to tell you something every time. Obviously, if you are simply patterning fish incorrectly, the rig may not be of use to you. If you use it where they live, it will draw a reaction and usually quickly at that. I initially target, sloping primary and secondary points with the rig. From there, I move to small shallow humps, sand bars and depressions, flats and sandy bottom areas. Perhaps one of the best places to utilize the split shot rig is on bare or nothing banks. These areas visually dont look as sweet as say a submerged log jam or weed bed. For this reason, they are often overlooked and passed by most target fishing anglers. The truth of the matter is that bass will be in these areas and often it is because the bottom offers something that the target angler doesnt even know is there. The rig also works well when pulled over shallow flats, sloping points, sandy banks, boat launch ramps and sandbars. Try it in non-traditional fishing spots. Locate bass daily migration routes and try this rig. Many times when fish are spooky, traditional baits wont raise a strike, the split shot rig may be just the ticket to catching a bass with lockjaw. Target spots that other fishermen ignore; bare banks, swimming areas and shallow sandy flats are among the choicest of areas.

Gear Breakdown: Split Shot Rig

Rod: Kistler California Series 6-9 ML Drop Shot rod

Reel: Shimano Sustain 1000FB

Line: Super Silver Thread 6lb

Hook: Gamakatsu size 1 or 1/0 thin wire straight shank

Bait: Robo Worm 4 Curly tail worm

Craig DeFronzo has written over 300 articles that are bass fishing related within the past decade for several of the top bass fishing web sites and periodicals. He is the author of over 12 books and eBooks on bass fishing and is the creator of Micro Munch Tackle. He started a small bait company based on the belief that unique custom tackle would be more appealing to bass that are continuously bombarded by the same commercial baits every day. Custom baits and lighter tackle have helped him achieve success in competition. For more information on custom handmade baits and more articles and Craig's ebooks visit http://micromunchtackle.com/

shimano fishing

Shimano saltwater fishing pliers sheath new

Shimano's fishing tool's sheath allows you to keep your fishing tools at your side. Durable nylon sheath will accommodate pliers up to 8" and has a leather backed stainless steel clip for use with or without a belt

Spinnerbaits are not just a tool for the spring and fall. Spinnerbaits can be deadly, if the right ones are fished in a variety of situations weather it be the East Coast or the West. The trick is to be able to distinguish which is the right one for the right situation? Spinnerbaits can fished in so many different ways, all of which, produce BIG BASS from north to south, east to west. They can be fished through the water column top to bottom. They are really a versatile bait if you know the little tricks it takes to fish them effectively. They can be fished many ways by varying the retrieve, weight of the bait, blade size, the trailer and colors. You have a bait here that can work a water column and catch fish from one to twenty-five feet, and because it is so versatile, you can fish it fast, slow, and in all seasons of the year.

The first time I discovered this, I was amazed at how many fish I had must have missed in my youth, by not knowing how to fish a spinnerbait here in the Northeast.

When it was October here in Delaware, I went hunting until the end of Quail season. Soon after 1976, I read my first issue of Basssmaster magazine, and saw that people were using this bait year round and catching bass. Soon after, in late December in Delaware, I caught my first bass on a "Stan Sloan" single nickel colorado blade,(with a purple skirt, with rattles on the arm,) by letting it flutter into a sunken tree, in ten foot deep, thirty-six degree water. I soon felt that sluggish pull on the line, "like a pile of leaves or grass", not until then, did I realize that I could catch bass year round on the right lures, with the right presentation, sound and color. It was well over six pounds, and was a different fight when she got close to the boat and saw the trolling motor. Since that time I have fished all over the United States, from New York to California, and found the right spinnerbait and the right technique produces big bass from all sorts of waters all year long. They key is to keep it in the strike zone, and most lures are made so that you can work them as slowly as you want to, while still keeping them in the zone.

"DIFFERENT TECHNIQUES"

I like to use the spinnerbait as a search tool, and kind of a depth finder, and bottom contour device also. What I do is check out the structure of the lake by bumping objects, and increasing my chance for a reaction strike right then. The spinnerbait will make a different sound bumping off different objects such as stumps, rocks, sand, and pea gravel.I also vary the speed often, and even shake the rod if necessary, trying to give the bass a different look, which is important in highly pressured waters. I work buzzbaits in a different manner also, which I believe is what accounts for some real lunkers that I might have otherwise missed. There are times when a spinnerbait is the most effective tool to use. When fishing the bait in heavy cover such as pads, I employ a technique that I now know is called fluttering by some anglers.

Basically what you do is to cast the spinnerbait out into the pads, and by moving your rod tip, and other parts of your body positioning, you maneuver the bait through the pads, and when it comes to an opening, stop it, and let it flutter down. Many strikes comes as a lure sinks.You should make a lot of casts to the areas where you really believe the bass are, or have seen them, as they can be irritated into striking if the bait is presented in enough variations and positions. Slow rolling can be extremely effective in deep water as it designed to imitate a crawfish on the bottom, or another type of bass forage. The trick to it is rolling it down the side of a sloping bank, a rock bar, a hump, or any underwater structure, and then slowly pumping it back to the boat. We employ the almost identical technique with a lipless crankbait with great success. There are also better types of spinnerbaits for different types of cover. C shaped baits tend to work better through heavy pads and grass, while a V shaped bait gets hung up more easily.

Riprap is another good area to slow roll spinnnerbaits. There is often debris mixed in with the rocks, and many times large bass are waiting in ambush for prey to come along, and are primes areas to slow-roll spinnerbaits. The spinnerbaits should be slow rolled over the rocks and such, and extra action imparted to the bait is not really necessary. It should crawl over the bottom, and sometimes I give it a little twitch. All you have to do is raise the rod a slightly, lightly shake it, and then continue slowrolling it back to the boat.

"DEEP METHODS"

When the bass are really deep I employ a technique I call deep pulling; its like a yo-yo method but a little different. I let the bait flutter all the way down, and then let it sit, then I pull it hard and way up near the surface and do it again. I use real heavy baits with Colorado blades for this, usually in a chartreuse, or a chartreuse and white skirt when I fish in places that have dying shad in the winter, but anywhere else, I use black, or black/purple combinations. I always add a little Megastrike to the baits.

"TACKLE"

I like to use a 6 to 6 1/2 foot rod for this but sometimes I like to use a 7 foot rod, on different occasions. Many times situations come up when a 7 foot rod suits the situation better that a 6 or 6 1/2 foot rod for distance and control. Most of my rods I use for this technique are in a medium heavy action. I really like a Fiberglass rod for these baits, but there are many new rods that are very good for spinnerbaits and crankbaits, made by G.Loomis, St.Croix, Kistler,and Shimano. Sometimes on the smaller baits I use a spinning rod with Stren Super Braid,or Power Pro, but the rest of the time I use a baitcasting rod with a Shimano Chronarch, with fourteen to twenty pound P-Line.

WHAT COLORS FOR WHAT BAIT

When I choose a color for a spinnerbait, a lot of factors come in to play. The first thing I do is pick a shad pattern, or whatever is the dominate species in the lake. I usually double up the skirts, to give them more bulk. I use blue and white, black and white, and chartreuse and white. Sometimes I use red, depending on the location. All of these colors give a good range of visibility under water.

In muddy water, I have always used the same colors, black and blue and red. The same goes for the nighttime. I like to use the forage in the lake if I can,such as rainbow trout or shad, and to make it appear injured to trigger that genetic response.

I like to use big spinnerbaits in the spring, when I'm in big fish waters, some right here in Delaware or Maryland, or others such as Florida, Arizona, Texas, and Mexico. When fishing strictly for big bass with spinnerbaits I add on a double or triple skirt for bulk and lift, and use really big blades. Terminator makes some big blades that I really like on our spinnerbaits. This year here in Delaware, we landed three bass in one day on big spinnerbaits, that went seven and eight pounds. Sometimes we even break off the tails of worms for trailers, and many times in the spring, I have caught some huge bass from ten inches of muddy water with a big spinnerbait with a trailer.

We have had a great response from bass in the Delaware, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, and Pennsylvania areas, using a double golden shiner skirt. The bluegill and shad patterns top the list overall though. Sometimes reversing the skirts on the baits presents a different profile, and will also trigger hard to get strikes. The spinnerbait isn't just a bait for beginners, although it is a great bait to break in a novice or child to the sport of bass fishing. But in the hands of an expert, it is a versatile year round bait, that can catch "HUGE" bass.

The new website for Steve vonBrandt is http://www.freewebs.com/stevevonbrandt

shimano fishing

Shimano Curado E Cu201e7 Left Hand Baitcasting Fishing Reel

The high performance Curado reel is ultra smooth, makes effortless casts, and is available in a 7.0:1 high speed, 5.0:1 power versions. The new 200 size is smaller than the previous Curado 100D but holds the same amount of line as the previous 200DHSV. Compact and lightweight with the heart and power of a large reel. The Curado 300 reel will change the way you think about low-profile baitcasting reels. Now you can expect large reel performace in a sleek, comfortable design that offers all of these benefits: * High Speed and Power * Excellent Casting Performace * Comfort and Maneuverability * High Line Capacity * Ability to Handle Large Plugs and Swimbaits

Selecting the right spinning reel can be a difficult thing to do. That's why I decided to write a quick article on spinning reel selection tips. There are some simple things that you can look for that can make all the difference. Because having a decent spinning reel is great, however having a spinning reel that wont perform properly is a terrible experience. And the last thing that you want is for your spinning reel to malfunction in the middle of fighting a trophy fish. I've had this happen, and the profanity laced tirade that followed would have made a long shore man blush. Use these simple spinning reel selection tips, so that you don't have to go through the same experience.

1. Match Your Spinning Reel To Your Rod - Whenever a spinning reel is purchased, on the packaging it says what weight it is: ultra light, light, medium, or heavy. You want the weight of the reel to match the weight of the rod, and you want the weight to match the type and size of fish that your fishing for. For example, if you're fishing for trout in small rivers and streams, you want to use an ultra light spinning reel and rod. Light action would be the heaviest in trout fishing situations such as these. This is also a great reason to not buy combination sets with the rod and spinning reel sold together. In most cases these combination sets are made with very cheap rods and spinning reels. It's better to purchase the two separately, so that you can get the feel and balance that you desire, and will work best for you.
2. Stick With A Quality Manufacturer - Many people attempt to save a little money by choosing an unknown manufacturer. This is not a good idea. Some quality manufacturers would include; Diawa, Pflueger, Okuma, and Shimano. Any one of these manufacturers would be a wonderful choice. And you don't have to break the bank either. In fact, a quality spinning reel should be able to be found for well under 50 bucks.
3. Pay Attention To The Number Of Ball Bearings - The more ball bearings a spinning reel has, the less play it will have in the crank. This makes a big difference to those of us who like to fish with live bait in the flowing waters of both rivers and streams. I like to have no "play" in my handle. In other words, when I turn the handle, I want the bail to immediately turn. I like to have no "play" at all. This normally means that I want at least 6 ball bearings in my spinning reels. Pflueger makes some quality and affordable spinning reels, for anyone who might be looking?

The bottom line is that these spinning reel selection tips should help you make a very informed decision, as to which spinning reel is right for you. Remember, a quality spinning reel should be able to be found for under fifty bucks. Breaking the bank shouldn't be necessary. Another great tip is to clean your spinning reel before the beginning of every fishing season. Remember, the last thing you want is for your spinning reel to malfunction while fighting a fish.

Trevor Kugler
Co-founder of JRWfishing.com
Trevor has more than 20 years of fishing experience, 15 years of business experience and currently raises his 3-year old daughter in the heart of trout fishing country......Montana.

Quality Spinning Reel Choices - http://www.jrwfishing.com/fishing_rods_reels.html

shimano fishing

SYMETRE SY4000FI Shimano Fishing Reel

Gorgeous, acrobatic, and lit-up, Sailfish rank as the # 1 sporty catch of south Florida. But there is a lot involved in the catch and release of these sought after game fish, after all their not the best table fare. How much vacuum packed smoked Sailfish can you eat? So whats involved in catching the Sailfish? What kind of bait? What is the best rod and reel set-up? What are some of the techniques to use on the water? Lets start out and learn from the end result and work our way to the beginning.

The fact is Sailfish fight their heart out, displaying themselves in full view acrobatics over and over again. Did you ever run the 100 yard dash in high school? What happened when you finished? If you were like me, you stood there with your head between your knees and tried to catch your breath. A Sailfish doesnt have the luxury of sitting there and catching his breath, they will sink. So what do you do when you get a Sailfish that looks half dead at your boat side? You need to resuscitate him! Put on your gloves, grab his sandpaper like spindle beak, remove your hook and hold him boat side, preferably with the boat in gear. You need to revive him for 5-10 minutes before you let him go. This might take some patience, but the reward is great when your prize catch swims away in good health ready to fight another day.

The above scenario is a bit traumatizing for the Sailfish, dont you think? Not to mention a little novice. Most cases when a Sailfish has to be resuscitated it is because the fight was prolonged. Fighting your Sailfish on anything less than 20 lb. test will prolong the battle unless you chase down your fish. Personally I prefer to fight my Sailfish with no help from the boat, but I also have that luxury since I fish from a center console. My clients have on numerous occasions commended me for not chasing down their fish, they appreciated catching their fish all on their own. As an example, if your using a 12 lb. set-up, you will need to hold at least 400 yards on your reel, and you might still get spooled from your average Sailfish if you dont chase him down. Even if you dont get spooled what fun is it seeing your fish jumping 300 yards away from the boat not to mention all that line dragging in the water increasing the risk for it to break. And finally you might have your fish boat side an hour or so later.

Fast reels, Hot baits

One of my favorite set-ups for Sail fishing is a Shimano TLD 20, spooled with over 400 yards of Berkley Big Game 30 pound test, accompanied with a seven foot, medium action Oceanmaster rod. This rod and reel set-up has caught tons of Sailfish over the years and remains unbeatable offshore. Keeping 4-5 pounds of drag set in the strike position, most Sailfish stay inside of 150 yards from the boat and are brought to the stern within 20 minutes. I use Berkley Big game fishing line on most reels, it doesnt have a lot of stretch or memory and is easy to tie with, it also is abrasive resistant. With experienced fishermen on board Ill tie a 5/0 Lazer sharp Eagle Claw Salmon hook directly to the main line. You can bring in the fish within 20 minutes and the line holds up very well, and you get a lot more hits that way. You will need to retie your hook after each fish caught to be safe from any nicks or chaff on your line.

Putting the right bait on your hook is critical to your success. I have caught Sailfish on Ballyhoo, Pilchards, and Threadfin Herring, but my best success is the valuable goggle eye. ( Literally at $50. to $100. a dozen) They are a soft bait with big eyes and strong swimmers making them great baits for all techniques. You can catch this bait on size 12 sabiki rigs but only at night, thats when the Goggle-eye becomes active. You can find them around structure up to about 80 feet of water and around anchored ships. As soon as the sun comes up the bite is off unless there is a full moon setting as the morning light breaks, then the bite will last just a bit longer. So prepare to fish for these Goggle-eyes 2-4 hours before sunrise giving yourself time to find them first.

The Technique

Setting up on the drift.

As mentioned earlier, on my flat lines I like to tie the hooks directly to the main line, otherwise Ill tie a short bimini to the tag end and attach my leader, 10 feet of 40 pound test Seaguar Fluorocarbon with an Albright knot. This knot takes practice, but once you get the feel of how this knot works you will never change. 2 to 3 flat lines are usually deployed at 50, 80, and past 100 feet away from the boat. 2 down lines are deployed at 40 and 80 feet down. The down lines are rigged different since weights are attached and the baits make more line twist, therefore I attach a stainless steel ball-bearing swivel to my Bimini and then 8 feet of 40-50 pound mono attached to 1 foot of # 4 wire Kingfish rig. You might not want Kings, but sooner or later your drift is going to take you over their zone, so be prepared for cut-offs. Most of the time I tie wire to all the rigs because the Kings bite on all lines. I use 4-6 oz weights on the down lines. The weight can be attached a few different ways. I like to insert the Bimini twist into the weight then tie on my snap swivel. You can also take a piece of dental floss, attach it to the weight and leave a long enough tag end to tie to the swivel. You can also use the breakaway technique where you will lose the weight. You take your line above the swivel and insert it through the weight so a loop appears on the other end, then take a rubber band, put it through the loop a few times and pull the mono slowly so the rubber band gets stuck inside the weight. When a fish strikes, the pressure on the line will release the weight. Setting your lines for the kite is the same as the down line without the weights. Tie your bimini, attach your ball-bearing swivel rated for 75-100 pounds, tie 8-10 feet of 50 leader material to the swivel and attach your tag end if you prefer, to 1 foot of # 4 wire leader attached to your hook via a haywire twist. Then I will take a 2 foot strip of red or orange ribbon and attach it to my swivel on the Bimini end, that way I can monitor my baits much easier.

Slow trolling

This technique is more advanced than drifting. It requires dropping your baits back on the strike. Sailfish are very sensitive as they pick up your bait, if your bumping in and out of gear a Sailfish can come up on your bait, mouth it, and if your drag is tight the boat will pull it from his mouth and he might not come back. I prefer to keep my drags in free spool with the clickers on, or on a spinning outfit I will leave the bail open, attach a piece of copper wire to the arm that is attached to the rod and make a small hook to hang the line on, with a gentle tug, the sailfish will pull the line from the tiny hook in the copper wire and put this reel into free spool as it runs with the bait. Let the fish eat for at least 5-10 seconds, or until he takes off speedily, then put your drag lever in the strike position and reel down until line starts peeling off the reel. When the kite bait gets hit, the Sailfish needs time to eat just like above, as you reel down on the fish the line will pop off the clip, so reel fast to get tight before he jumps. If he jumps before you get tight, chances are you missed him.

Prime time for south Florida Sailfish starts from November through April when these fish are concentrated in 100 to 200 feet of water. On winter days as the wind comes out of the east it is not unusual to get 4-5 releases in a days fishing out of Ft. Lauderdale, 3 or more releases constitutes a good day. During the winter season be sure to present plenty of baits down deep, at least 50 feet or more down. We catch a lot of sails this way, it seems the top part of the water column is a bit too cold for them especially on those days when the winds are blowing from the north.

When targeting Sailfish, look for the edge where the cobalt blue waters meets the green water. This is where the bait usually winds up as these two currents move against each other. This edge always changes, sometimes you will not find blue water past 700 feet or so. Dont neglect this area, many times I have put lines down from 75-100 feet and came up with a beautiful tail walker. Pay attention to the current as well, a good 2 knot north current produces some of the best bites.

Captain Cary Hanna fishes the offshore waters off Ft. Lauderdale beach from the Hillsborough inlet south to Haulover. He pursues Sailfish, Kingfish, Dolphin, Tuna, Sharks, and Swordfish aboard his 2004 Donzi 32 ZF center console, powered with twin 225hp. Mercury Optis. He can be contacted at 954-907-0967 or visit his website for the latest fishing report and pictures at http://www.newlattitude.com

shimano fishing

Shimano Tiagra 16 Big Game Fishing Reel Cover New

Keeping your tackle safe and secure is very important to fisherman. This gear was designed to help you prevent any unnecessary loss of tackle during a day on the water. Protect your reels with Shiamno's new neoprene reel covers. All sides made of neoprene to help absorb the bumps and scratches. Design allows for reel covers to be mounted while the reel is on or off the rod. All sides made out of 5mm neoprene # Gold logo and stitches over shiny black fabric match the color of Tiagra reels and Tallus rods.# All reel covers fit perfectly to specific size of Tiagra reels.

Chain Pickerel,(Esox Niger), are a formidable gamefish, that are actively pursued by some, and despised by others!

Chain Pickerel can be found throughout the Northeast, and down to Florida. In some areas, these are prized as trophies that deserve the same respect as a big largemouth bass, in other areas, such as in Florida, many anglers consider them nothing more than a nuisance.

Many inexperienced anglers mistake this fish for a Northern pike, but there are distinct differences in these two species. The Chain Pickerel is distinguished by it's chain like pattern along it's body. The Chain Pickerel doesn't reach the same proportions as its counterpart, the Northern Pike. Most Chain Pickerel are considered large when they reach 3-4 pounds. A true "TROPHY," is anything above the 4 pound mark. The state record for Chain Pickerel in most states is between 6 and 8 pounds. Each year, in the spring, fall, and winter, large specimens are caught that are in the 4-5 pound range on average, but very few giants over 6 pounds are caught at any time of the year. The Chain Pickerel actually hit the best in the winter and early spring, and start their spawning process as water temperatures climb into the 40's. Unlike most other species, they don't make beds, and they deposit their eggs on strands of vegetation, sometimes mixed with sticks, and other structure. They don't defend their young either, they deposit the eggs and move on, devouring their own young soon after they hatch.

LOCATIONS AND TACTICS:

Chain Pickerel hit well in the winter months, and even through the ice. They usually cruise the same areas as other gamefish such as largemouth bass, crappies, yellow perch, and other panfish.

Pickerel will savagely attack schools of baitfish, or individuals, whatever is the easiest prey at the time. I have caught Chain Pickerel with Catfish lodged in their mouths that were too large to swallow, and they still were attacking other baits. I have even found Chain Pickerel laying dead or dying, on the surface with huge bluegills stuck in their mouths, yet at other times, only want a small bait on or near the bottom.

The best locations for Chain Pickerel in the winter is along points, with drop-offs near deeper water, and areas that contain some underwater cover and vegetation nearby. They will be shallow at times, even in very cold water, but are always near the baitfish, and deeper water escape routes. They can be found by deep water brushpiles also, due to the fact that these same areas hold other types of prey, and panfish, thus the pickerel aren't far away.

Contrary to popular belief, Chain Pickerel can be caught in the dark, but this is more of a rare occurrence than a standard rule of thumb. In the early spring, many of the pickerel will be in water near the shoreline, and emerging grasses, and other vegetation, gorging on baitfish, and preparing to spawn. They can be in water as shallow as a few inches, to a couple of feet. The easiest way to catch chain pickerel is on live bait. They like medium to large shiners, and big minnows. This has always been a standard fare for pickerel. There are other methods though that will take real "Trophies," and not so many of the more common 2-3 pounders.

The best way to catch larger chain pickerel is to use a small jig such as a shad dart, in yellow/red, or yellow/white combinations, in a 1/64 ounce size, up to about an 1/8 ounce. These are really small baits, and a lot of finesse is required to catch chains on these lures. The other bait that works well is a 1/16 to 1/4 ounce brown or brown/black hair jig. Both these jigs should be used first without any other bait, such as minnows attached to them.

You first need to find the areas that will hold the pickerel; drop-offs, near points, humps, vegetation, and other cover. You should rig this jig on 4-6 pound test line. This is what makes the lure have the correct action and depth that trigger some of the bigger fish. It is the same principle as smallmouth fisherman use on Pickwick. They use 6 pound test line, not because the fish can see it, but because it allows the lure to maintain the proper fall, depth, and action, that catch the larger fish.

I like to rig two rods, with a shad dart on one, and a hair jig on the other. I start by letting out about a hundred feet of line, and slowly trolling these baits in wide, 360 degree circles over the chosen areas. You will pick up leaves and grass if you're doing it right, if you don't. slow down. The majority of strikes will feel like nothing more than grass or leaves on the lure, but most of time it's a big Chain Pickerel!

I can't overemphasize the importance of watching the line! If the line moves, or does ANYTHING, that it hasn't been doing, then set the hook. You can't set the hook the same way you do with a bass. It takes a slower short snap in the wrist, while reeling the line up tight, and applying just the right amount of pressure. The drag setting is critical, since you are using such light line, and light equipment.

Most of the time, I take the anti-reverse off, and backreel. They will make some long runs and head to the deeper water on the bottom, and try to wrap you up in the trolling motor, and break you off under the boat as they get close. The only way to get good at landing them, is to catch them. Practice is the only way to get a feel for landing them on this light equipment. If you don't get any takers after working 2 or 3 of your best areas, then add a small minnow to the back of the lures, but go to a 1/8 or 1/4 ounce, in brown/orange or lime green.

Troll them the same way in these areas again, while casting another rod to search the areas, and impart more action to the bait to try to develop a pattern that they want that day. Pickerel are ferocious one day, and finicky the next. They are unpredictable sometimes, so don't give up. On a good day, I have caught 5-7 Chain Pickerel that were all over 4 pounds, and usually 2 or 3 over 5 pounds. I have caught others in some Delaware and New Jersey Lakes, that exceeded 6 pounds. I caught a Chain Pickerel in 2000, that won the Delaware State Sportfishing Tournament for the year, that was 6 pounds, 14 ounces, just a few ounces short of the state record!

EQUIPMENT:

You need 3 or 4 spinning rods for these tactics, in the 5 and 5 1/2 foot range, ultra-light to light action, with a good degree of sensitivity. I like G.Loomis rods, but there are other good light action rods you can use for this as well. They should be paired with a good reel, such as a Shimano or Daiwa, with a great drag, set lightly. But as I mentioned before, backreeling, with the anti-reverse off, is really the best way. I use Stren line in 4-6 pound test for this, as it gives the lures the proper action, and depth. Recently though, I have experimented with some superlines with good results.

BEST LOCATIONS:

Here in the Northeast, (Delaware, New Jersey, and New York), in particular, some of the places that hold the largest chain pickerel are Horsey's Pond, in Lower Delaware, Killens Pond in Dover, and the Nanticoke River, (Broad Creek), in Seaford.

In New York I like Lake Champlain, and in New Jersey, Farrington, Union, Assunpink, and Hopetcong, are among some of the better lakes, although there are many more that produce big chains as well. Employ some of these tactics this winter and in the spring on some of these lakes and I think you will be surprised at the results. You won't catch as many pickerel using some of these methods, but they will be BIG!

Steve vonBrandt sponsored by Gary Yamamoto Custom Baits, TTI-Blakemore, Okuma, and Ambush Lures. 1998 BBWC, NAFC Hall Of Fame angler. Reeltimeanglers at http://www.reeltimeanglers.com

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The smallest necessities are sometimes the most critical for a day of fishing. These products can make a day on the water more comfortable and help you increase your fishing success. # Construction 100% Polyester. Features# Six panel medium profile cap.# Curved sandwich bill# A-Flex head band fits comfortably to your head size.# Padded sweatband for comfort.# Shimano logo embroidered on both front and back.

Many anglers wonder what the difference is between spinning reels. In all honesty there isn't a ton of difference, and there are many quality spinning reels available for very affordable prices. As a matter of fact, for ultra light to light action fishing (which are the sizes that offer the most "sport" to your fishing experience) it's probably not necessary to spend any more than $50 for a quality spinning reel. Some manufactures that produce quality spinning reels would include: Daiwa, Pflueger, Quantum, and Shimano. My personal favorite id Pflueger, but this is simply my personal preference.

The biggest single factor in picking out a good spinning reel is the amount of ball bearings that are in the drive mechanism (which is where the handle is turned). Generally the more ball bearings, the better. Why is this? Simply because the less ball bearings there are, the more "play" there is in the crank, and the less play there is, the better. I personally like having very little or no "play" in the handle of my spinning reel. To me, this play factor is the biggest single factor in a good spinning reel.

After this what your looking for are mainly ascetics. After all, you want your reel to look good with the rod your using, right? Not only look good but fit properly. This is usually fairly simple. If you have an ultra light action rod, buy an ultra light reel, and if you have a light action rod buy a light action spinning reel. This information can be found in small print at the base of your fishing rod, in case you didn't know.

Another consideration, that is again up to personal preference, is the location of the drag adjustment. The drag adjustment will be either on the spool or heel end of the spinning reel, and is a consideration. I prefer my drag adjustment be on the spool end, but again this is largely up to personal preference. My fishing buddy prefers his on the heel of his spinning reel.

The bottom line is that any of the manufactures mentioned in this article would be a fine choice for a good spinning reel. Problems usually arise when anglers buy from un-known manufacturers or try to be too frugal. I would personally be really wary of any spinning reel that cost less than $20. However for $25-50 you should be able to find a really good spinning reel.

Trevor Kugler
Co-founder of http://www.JRWfishing.com
Trevor has more than 20 years of fishing experience, 15 years of business experience and currently raises his 3-year old daughter in the heart of trout fishing country......Montana.

Here's some great spinning reel choices - http://www.jrwfishing.com/fishing_rods_reels.html

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