Shimano Fishing License Holder - w/Lanyard

Water-proof & Comes with a Lanyard with Shimano Logo

I recently had the pleasure of taking Carl-Johan Nilsson out for a bit of a fish in our inshore game fishing vessel Offensive Tackle. The weather was a bit gnarly outside the reef so we spent the first afternoon working some of my favourite narrow barred (Spanish) mackerel spots close to the resort. We trolled a couple of bibbed minnows (Red head and green/gold) as well as a mackerel favourite ballyhoo rigged with a heavy skirted lure on the nose. The water was unfortunately quite churned up due to spring tides and rough weather but the fish were there. I know this from seeing several fish of about 20lbs leap vertically out of the water around us whilst hitting surface baitfish. On one such occasion a fish leapt 20 feet into the air right beside the boat as we trolled along. Such was the height of the jump; I had time to point it out to the guests as the fish inverted its leap with a sideways roll and pitched back head first towards the sea. Id swear the dammed fish smiled and winked at me.

We returned home defeated but with Carl diving the next morning, we agreed to have another go the following afternoon. I felt it necessary to rescue my reputation and stamp our authority on those smiling mackerel.

We began by trolling a similar spread of lures and lure/bait combos on Shimano 30lb trolling outfits. This gear is capable of handling any and all predators that we target inside the reef including sailfish but is light enough to be user friendly for the occasional novice angler.

Carl was quite experienced and had brought a few of his own rods & reels to try out. I decided that the mackerel might be so focused on small baitfish that they were ignoring our larger lures and so elected to run an extra downsized lure. It was here that we made or first mistake.

We ran a small Rapala on Carls gear:

• reel is a Daiwa Caprice 3500 with 20 pound Fireline
• the rod a Viva/Tom Raymond Combat Stik 3.30m (11")
• 20-70g (3/4 - 2 1/2 oz)
• 6-9 lb.

There had been quite a few decent sized Yellowfin about outside the reef and in the back of my mind I knew that they sometimes come inside the reef during inclement weather but those mackerel were laughing at me so hey caution out the window..

It was inevitable really.at 4.15 the little outfit bent double and the fixed spool reel whined as line pealed off at an alarming rate. We cleared the deck and settled down for a fight. Small to medium sized mackerel are not big fighters and usually tire after 5 to 10 minutes on 30lb gear but after half an hour, this guy was still winning. After 45 minutes, the fish briefly surfaced and gave us a glimpse of a yellow sickle fin. Right then I knew we were in trouble. With coral reefs around and a good sized Yellowfin sounding on light tackle, we chased the fish around and tried to coax her clear of the reefs and shallows where razor sharp corals waited to bust us off. This was going to take a while and with darkness falling at about 5.30, navigating home through the maze of reefs was going to be my worst nightmare. An hour into the fight with his rod bent double, Carl had to start taking risks and began inching up the drag. I have never deliberately cut off a fish and wasnt about to start then. Thats the problem with fixed spool reels, if you change the drag you just dont know exactly what your new drag setting is.

Eventually, the fish began to tire a little and Carl managed to get its head up and start to make some line back. One and a half hours later, we finally managed to get the fish circling besides the boat and sank the gaff home.

I then had to get us home and began the tricky sprint, crawl, sprint journey back to the resort through the lagoons and narrow passageways. With one eye glued to the GPS and the other to the sounder we crawled the last mile in pitch dark. I was much relieved to see the anchor light on Bite Me as she sat on her mooring. Not a situation any skipper wants to find himself in but hey, we got home safely, Carl with a nice 30lb Yellowfin for dinner and I have yet to deliberately cut off a fish.

And the moral of the story is.If you set out to fish 30lb gear and stick a little baitcaster out the side you are asking for trouble. You just know which one is going to get hit !

Adrian was born on the island of Cyprus and graduated to his first rod & reel at the age of five. Having fished around the world from the Arabian Gulf to the North sea and English Channel, he finally settled for the tropical waters of the South Pacific around the island of Kadavu, Fiji Islands. Director of Matava Resort Gamefishing, he skippers 'Bite Me', the resort's 31ft DeepVee Gamefishing vessel and thoroughly enjoys exploring the light and heavy tackle fishing around the island and Great Astrolabe Barrier Reef. An IGFA Certified Captain, he advocates tag & release and is a keen supporter of the IGFA and the Billfish Foundation.

Adrian Watt
IGFA Captain
info@matava.com
http://www.Matava.com
http://www.GamefishingFiji.com
http://www.GameFishingFiji.blogspot.com

shimano fishing

Shimano Freshwater Saltwater Fishing Hat Stone M/L New

The smallest necessities are sometimes the most critical for a day of fishing. These products can make a day on the water more comfortable and help you increase your fishing success. # Construction 100% Polyester. Features# Six panel medium profile cap.# Curved sandwich bill# A-Flex head band fits comfortably to your head size.# Padded sweatband for comfort.# Shimano logo embroidered on both front and back.

Currently there are many types of bicycles available. Even so, the standard safety bicycle design developed in the 1800's is the basis of our current bicycle designs. The types of bicycle most commonly used today are mountain bikes, cruisers, touring bicycles, racing bikes, BMX's and utility bikes. The class a bicycle falls in hinges on a number of elements; style of construction, number of passengers, gearing and propulsion.

Mountain bicycles were intended for trail and mountain riding where the terrain is tough. The frames are constructed to resist the rough treatment of riding in natural settings. In addition, special tires and gearing make it easier for riders to get the power they require to keep moving.

BMX bicycles are another unique style. These cycles usually have little 16 - 24 inch traction treaded tires. They are small framed, making them easier to maneuver and much faster. BMX bikes are usually used for racing and even for doing fantastic tricks.

Racing cycles are designed for road cycling and they are all about speed. They're light weight and have excellent handling. Racing bicycles use drop handlebars, positioned lower than the saddle. This puts the riders body in the best possible aerodynamic posture. The closeness of the derailleur gear ratios permit the rider to pedal at the most effective cadence.

Touring bikes are unique in that they have racks mounted on them to carry the riders gear. These racks are attached to the frame of the bicycle in front and back. The wheel base is also longer than on a standard bike, which makes it able to carry more weight. Also, features such as wider tires and additional water bottle mounts are commonly incorporated.

Tandem bicycles carry two or more passengers at once. Tandem refers to the way the seats of the bicycle are set up, and not to the number of passengers it will carry. All the passengers of a tandem bike pedal, providing power. In most tandem set ups, the front rider controls the steering just like in a standard bicycle.

Low rider bicycles are normally home-built, extraordinary customized bikes. They have normally got an old-school curled banana seat with a extremely tall sissy bar. Ape-hangers are the norm for handlebars, giving the bicycle a "chopper" look & feel. They're normally chromed to the limit and have glittery, high spoke-count wheels.

Recumbent bikes & trikes are designed so that the rider is reclining back in a low-statured position. Also commonly referred to as 'bents. The seat supports the passengers back and the legs are extended forward to the pedals. The seat and pedals are usually at the same height. Tires used on recumbents are commonly smaller and farther apart than they are on an upright bike. Recumbents can be guided using either over- or under- seat steering.

There are other types of human powered vehicles referred to as "bikes" too. Though they are not technically regarded as bicycles, they work on the same general principles. They include unicycles, tricycles and quadracycles. Fun to ride, no doubt, none of these styles are used very often.

Despite the multitude of bicycles that are commercially available, there are always those that want to construct their own. Building a bicycle, trike, or tandem at home is fun and not awful hard. In fact, nearly anybody with a can-do attitude, a a couple of tools and some simple instruction could build a decent bicycle.

Bike building can be done in a shed or garage and it's an excellent small project. For individuals that want a custom-made bike without the custom built cost it's an excellent choice. The bicycle you make could bring back a old-time style or lead the pack into the future of bike construction.

Whether you decide to ride a factory built bicycle or a unique custom bike, the important thing is to get out there and ride! Next time, we'll discuss the important topic of bicycle safety.

For more information about Do It Yourself Bicycle Building, visit: http://biblioflip.com

K.L. "Vin" Hayes guides a team of autonomous authors and investigators. Over the last decade, they have worked in concert to produce quality digital reissues of vintage documents & books as well as original works. Vin specializes in how-to information that includes a wide variety of matters such as hunting & fishing, hobbies & crafts, self-improvement, construction and a great deal.

shimano fishing

Shimano Curado E Cu201e7 Left Hand Baitcasting Fishing Reel

The high performance Curado reel is ultra smooth, makes effortless casts, and is available in a 7.0:1 high speed, 5.0:1 power versions. The new 200 size is smaller than the previous Curado 100D but holds the same amount of line as the previous 200DHSV. Compact and lightweight with the heart and power of a large reel. The Curado 300 reel will change the way you think about low-profile baitcasting reels. Now you can expect large reel performace in a sleek, comfortable design that offers all of these benefits: * High Speed and Power * Excellent Casting Performace * Comfort and Maneuverability * High Line Capacity * Ability to Handle Large Plugs and Swimbaits

In modern carp fishing the ability to cast further is a definite advantage in the anglers armoury. The fact is, that despite what their estimated casting range is, most anglers will struggle to better 100 yards by any great margin.

Not all waters allow boats or bait boats, so being able to cast is a real plus, and can make the difference between catching and not catching. I remember all too well blanking on a lake in France because the fish were at 150 yards and I couldn't reach them. The Dutch guy in the next peg was casting there easily. Needless to say he bagged up... much to my frustration.

We can't all afford to go out and buy top of the range gear, which is what you 'll need to compete with the top casters.. that and loads of tuition and a modicum of talent. For us mere mortals a few hints and tips can get us up to the 140-150 yards range. I've done it measured, so as an average caster I can tell you it works. These tips were picked up from Mark Hutchinson and Mehdi Daho, but if you really want to get into the big league. I suggest you take lessons with someone like Mark.

Ok so here are 10 tips that will help you cast further with your regular carp gear.

1. Use a Large Spool Big Pit 'Type' Reel: These don't have to cost a fortune, the Shimano AERLEX costs as little as fifty quid. Okuma make excellent value big spool reels too.

The top flight reels like the Ultegra's from Shimano and Tournaments from Daiwa will set you back a few bob, but are excellent tools. The advantage of the wide spool on a big pit is that the diameter doesn't drop as quickly as you cast, thus less friction builds up on the spool lip, increasing your distance.

2. Fill Spool to the Rim: Make sure you fill your spool right up to the rim. Modern fixed spool reels used in carp fishing have pretty good line lay, compared to the awful things like Mitchell 300's and Cardinals. To make the most of the casting capacity of your reel fill it right flush to the lip. Don't overfill as you'll get bird's nests, but go as full as you can. Bear in mind that the line will bed down a bit.

3. Fill Your Spool with 10lb Monofilament Line: It stands to reason the finer the line you use the further you'll cast. You can't go mad in carp fishing as the fish are big and fight hard. In most open water 10lb mono is more than adequate. I use Daiwa Sensor 10lb for my long range stuff, but many of the quality monos on the market will do. Some anglers drop line strength even more...it's a trade off really between abrasion resistance and casting needs. A finer diameter line will naturally need far less chaffing to break it than heavy, thicker nylon. A few drops of Kryston Greased Lightening will also make the nylon flow off the reel better.

4. Use a Braided Leader: To get maximum distance with 10lb main line you'll need a shock leader. Here I'd recommend a 50lb braid for a leader material. Braid has no stretch so all your power is put into the blank and not into the stretch of a nylon leader. It will add distance to your casts.

5. Use A Helicopter Rig: The best casting rig is the 'Helicopter' rig. Set up right is is also the only rig that will leave the fish free of the line in the case of a crack off. Now these rigs DO have to be done right. The wrong set up and you have a death rig, as the fish trail line and the lead. There are several companies making either ready to use rigs or selling the various end rig items you need to make a safe set-up. Please pay careful attention to this! The poor set up of the helicopter rigs has seen it banned on my waters, which is stupid, as done correctly it should be the safest rig out there.

It lets the lead fly first and the bait follows, giving you a more aerodynamic set up and therefore more distance. Combine this with a short nylon stiff or combi-hooklink and it will go far...

6. Use a Zip Lead: A lead of the Zip type will cast further than any lead out there. Aerodynamic, these leads really come into their own when used with a bait. In most circumstances you may net see a huge difference between dumpy pear leads and zips, that is until you attach your boilie. The zip gives your rig far more stability and lets you get several yards extra distance on your cast. These leads fly straight and true and will be more accurate too.

7. Use a Small Bait: Inertia is one of the main problems you come across when looking to gain those precious extra yards. It stands to reason a large 22mm boilie not only adds weight to the rig, but also adds wind resistance and makes the set up less stable in the air and less aerodynamic. If you drop your bait size down to 14mm or smaller, it won't prevent a carp from finding and eating your offering, but it will certainly help cancel out some of the negative effects of the large bait.

8. Use a Fingerstall: This is primarily a safety issue. Braided leaders are like cheese wire, and will cut your finger down to the bone easily if you don't wear a fingerstall. These need to be leather Reuben Heatons offers a very good one. To my mind the fear of hurting myself and certainly the pain of slicing my finger would prevent me from really leaning into a cast without one. The use of a fingerstall, the safety issue aside, gives me all the confidence to go for the big one and not worry about injury. As I said above, you need strong fine braided shock leader with no stretch to transfer the energy of the lead compressing the blank on the cast. To use braid you MUST protect your casting finger.

9. Make Sure Your Rod Handle is the Right Length: Now here is a point I bet most people don't think about when they buy a rod to cast long range with. The length of the handle. So you can transfer the maximum of your bodyweight into the cast, you need to be able to tuck the handle under your armpit as you follow through. If the handle is too long, you'll need to push it to one side at the end of the cast. You'll almost certainly be losing yourself a few metres like this. You don't need full custom built rods, but you should get a rod builder or a good tackle shop to tailor your rod for your arm length.

10. Cast Off the Deck: You can gain precious yards by laying your lead on the floor and casting off the deck. You'll transfer all the force of the cast almost immediately as you lift the weight, compressing the blank and unleashing the full power of the rod. A couple of points to bear in mind, you might want to uprate your leader strength to 100lb or so, as the casts of this type are brutal to say the least. You also might want to lay the lead and the rig on an unhooking mat of some such thing to avoid catching the rig on the ground or vegetation as you cast. I'd probably protect the hook point with PVA also to avoid it pricking the material.

This is not an exhaustive list, but just a few tips and guide lines I've picked up to help you put extra yards on a cast. Don't be afraid of breaking a rod, although its always a possibility, modern carbon fibre is a hugely strong material and in normal fishing the risks are not too great. A fishing rod is a tool so use it to its full...

by Gareth Watkins :
For more Carp Fishing News, Posts, Tips and Articles Check out my own Angling Lines Blog at : http://www.anglinglines.com/blog

shimano fishing