Everthing You Need to Know About Shimano Fishing Boots.

Monday, 26 January 2009

Rapala Limited 1st Edition Fishing Santa Figurine 'Tonttu Wader'

Rapala Collectible First Edition Figurine named 'Tonttu Wader'. 'Tonttu Wader' is part of the Angler Series. This figurine comes with it's own Certificate of Authenticity and in it's original box. It can stand on it's own or on the wooden holder. It stands 7 inches tall not on the wooded holder. This work is issued in a strictly limited edition of 3000 after which the master mold will be destroyed to preserve the integrity of the edition. Get them while you still can, before it's too late!


Fiji Inshore / Reef Pattern (The I dont care spread)

The Fiji islands enjoy a whole variety of sport fish species from reef dwelling coral trout to oceanic blue marlin. Whilst we usually target particular species aboard our game fishing vessels here at Matava in Fiji, Bite Me and Offensive Tackle, we sometimes take resort guests out simply to catch dinner and have fun doing so.

It's general fishing (Otherwise known as I dont care what I catch just as long as its big and tasty) so we aim to cover all our bases and catch a variety of different species.

We run 15kg (30lb) Shimano TLD25 outfits on Excalibur roller tip rods with a 9ft double connected to a short leader. All minnows are rigged on a short single strand wire trace. The sample spread below should give you an idea of how we fish the inner lagoons and fringing reefs for anything and everything found there.

Sample I dont care spread from our inshore sport fishing boat Offensive Tackle

SHORT CORNER

Target Mackerel, Grouper, Red Bass

  1. Halco Sorcerer Silver (mullet)
  2. Halco Laser Pro 190 Crazy Deep Silver (mullet)

LONG CORNER

Target Mackerel, Barracuda, Long Tom

  1. Lurestreet Raptor Green / Gold or Red / White

SHORT RIGGER

Target Tuna, all Trevally

  1. Wellsys Micro Bullet Red black / Pink

LONG RIGGER

Target Tuna, all Trevally

  1. Pakula Uzi Orange.
  2. Abu Toby Spoon or other metal slug- Silver Target - Queenfish

SHOTGUN

Target Mackerel, Tuna, all Trevally

  1. Halco Laser Pro 160 minnow Redhead
  2. Pakula Phantom Blue Silver / Green Gold (Evil) Target Sailfish.
  3. Halco Roosta Popper Redhead Target Large Great Barracuda & GTs

Species Variety:

Mackerel

  • Narrow Barred (Spanish) Mackerel
  • Shark Mackerel
  • Double lined Mackerel
Tuna

  • Yellowfin Tuna
  • Skipjack Tuna
  • Mackerel Tuna (Kawakawa)
  • Bigeye Tuna
  • Albacore
Trevally

  • Giant Trevally
  • Bluefin Trevally
  • Bigeye Trevally
  • Brassy Trevally
  • Golden Trevally
Barracuda

  • Great Barracuda
  • Chevron Barracuda
  • Bigeye Barracuda
Grouper

  • Coral Trout
  • Lyretail Grouper
  • Peacock Grouper
  • Rock Cod

Where we get our Inshore lures :

Wellsys Tackle

Palmfishing & Outdoors : Fishing Tackle Warehouse, Palm Fishing, Fishing News, Feeds, Community, Forums

Adrian was born on the island of Cyprus and graduated to his first rod & reel at the age of five. Having fished around the world from the Arabian Gulf to the North sea and English Channel, he finally settled for the tropical waters of the South Pacific around the island of Kadavu, Fiji Islands. Director of Matava Resort Gamefishing, he skippers 'Bite Me', the resort's 31ft DeepVee Gamefishing vessel and thoroughly enjoys exploring the light and heavy tackle fishing around the island and Great Astrolabe Barrier Reef. An IGFA Certified Captain, he advocates tag & release and is a keen supporter of the IGFA and the Billfish Foundation.

Adrian Watt
IGFA Captain
info@matava.com
http://www.Matava.com
http://www.GamefishingFiji.com
http://www.GameFishingFiji.blogspot.com

shimano fishing

Tuesday, 20 January 2009

got snook? Men's tee Shirt in 12 colors Small thru 6XL




As Forrest Gump would say, you never know what youre
going to get.

Not too many things get me more excited than the prospect
of hooking and landing big fish. The mere thought of setting
the hook on a 300 pound marlin, hearing the scream of the
drag as the fish pulls off line and watching the acrobatic
leaps that follow really gets my heart pumping. Fortunately
for me, a two and a half hour flight and a 30-minute drive is
all it takes to find myself in the billfish capital of the world.
What more can a sport fisherman ask for?

Well, for starters, variety. Just like biting into a randomly
selected piece of chocolate, when you set out the trolling
lures here in Los Cabos in search of the next big one, you
just dont know what it will be. Different seasons bring
different possibilities as does different sides of the Baja
peninsula. The diversity of game fish here never ceases to
amaze me and even a slow day on the water offers the
opportunity to see some of the oceans greatest creatures.
Whales, porpoise, sea turtles and bat rays that often school
by the hundreds and perform what almost appears to be a
choreographed routine of synchronized jumps. On a spring
trip to Cabo in late march of this year, my partner Dolores
Peralta and I had another opportunity to experience the
diversity of life in these nutrient rich waters.

Jacqueline Jacquie Lee, owner of Guerita II, set us up for
two days of fishing with Captain Efren Beron Zamora and
crewman Jesus Alfredo Espinoza. Efren has a lifetime of
experience as an angler, guide and captain and has a love
of the ocean that rubs off on crew and passenger alike. The
Guerita II is a tournament rigged 34-foot Crystaliner
equipped with everything the avid angler could need or ask
for _ Shimano Tiagra 50 wide LRS & Penn International
reels, Shimano Black Steel IGFA rods and an outstanding
selection of lures, this wide-beamed fishing machine
boasts top-of-the-line electronics to help get you on the bite
fast.

We arrived at the docks at 6:30 in the morning, a little late for
Captain Efrens liking as he planned on running out about
30-40 miles in search of warm, blue water where he hoped
to put us on striped marlin and tuna. While waiting on our
arrival Efren had already loaded up on live bait from the
pangeros that supply the fleets and with no delay, we were
on our way. Winds this time of the year can be unpredictable
and on this day, the winds helped build a fairly large swell.
We motored our way out to sea on a bumpy but dry ride to
the fishing grounds. Once he found the water conditions that
best provided the chance for large billfish, he switched
driving positions to the tall tuna tower while Alfredo began to
set out our spread of lures. Purple and orange Zukers set
out at the fifth wake behind the boat, trolling feathers in pink
and white and Mexican flag patterns on the third wake and a
dark colored Marauder set close to the boat.

A few hours passed as we crisscrossed areas where
colder water met warmer, Efrens eyes trained on the
surface scanning for signs that fish were near circling and
diving birds, the tail of a marlin cruising for its next meal, a
pod of porpoise balling bait. None of the usual signs
appeared until Efrens eagle eyes spotted a feeder, a
marlin
actively working the ocean surface. A quick turn of the boat
and a punch of the throttle controls placed us in the perfect
position to present our spread of lures to the fish. The
marlin took notice and struck one of the lures back at the
fifth wake. The jigstrike started our adrenalin flowing and we
scrambled to the deck to ready for a battle. The marlin let
loose the lure just as Alfredo cast a live bait back to entice a
bite. After a few tense moments, the marlin took the bait, the
reel left in free spool in order to give it time to fully take the
bait. Flipping the reel into locked position followed by three
to four strong and sharp lifts of the rod tip set the hook on a
good sized striped marlin.

Dolores took her position in one of the two fighting chairs
mounted on the stern and within seconds the marlin was
giving us a show. Several vertical leaps and violent shakes
of its broad head and the fight began. The key to landing
marlin is the hook set. Everything depends on whether or
not the hook was in the right position when the hook set is
made. Many times, the marlin takes the bait only partially
and the hook never pierces the mouth fully when the set is
made. Unfortunately, this was one of those times. Shortly
after the first series of jumps was made, a second series
began and on this series the hook was thrown and the fish
was lost. Spooked by the encounter, the marlin sounded
and was soon nowhere to be found.

We continued on in search of another marlin, my turn in the
chair coming next. A short while later, a starboard reel
started to scream. Nothing was visible on the surface so the
likelihood of it being a marlin was slim. From the strong pull
and speed of the fish, we thought it would be a tuna and
sure enough it was. The fight lasted only 5-10 minutes and
soon we had a twenty-pound yellowfin on deck.

The trolling continued and for several hours and we had
nothing to do but occasionally switch out lures and scan the
horizon for signs of life. Efren spotted a true prize in the form
of a swordfish. While these great eating game fish can be
found here most of the year, they prefer colder water so
spring is generally the best time of year for this sought after
species. Although the sword made a turn towards our
spread and a live bait was cast directly in front of it, this fish
was apparently well fed and no matter how appealing the
presentation, it would not take the bait or strike a lure. As
they say, thats why they call it fishing and not catching. The
balance of the day produced only suntans and relaxation.

On our second day on the Guerita II, we arrived at 5:30,
determined to beat Efren and Alfredo to the boat. Once
again, Efren had made it to the boat well before us and once
again, he had already baited up. If I didnt know better, Id
say he must have slept on the boat just to make sure we
wouldnt arrive before him! We headed out, stopping off to
check in with the port authorities to present our manifest
and fishing licenses. A recent change in fiscal policies
keeps the revenues from fishing licenses within the state
where the activity is taking place. This restructuring has
apparently heightened the diligence of officials responsible
for ensuring that everyone on a boat possesses a valid
license, even those not fishing. Makes sense that if you get
to keep the money, youre more likely to make sure everyone
is playing by the rules and buying their licenses. Those that
did not have licenses in hand were sent back to the docks to
get them or there would be no fishing that day.

This day we decided to switch to the Sea of Cortez side of
the cape and concentrate our efforts on some of the
in-shore species that Los Cabos waters offer up. One of the
benefits of a pre-dawn start is the experience of viewing
some of the most spectacular sunrises youre likely to find
anywhere in the world. The skies here light up with all the
colors of an artists canvas with the endless reflection of the
ocean surface. Everything is bathed in reds, oranges and
yellows and the sky appears to be on fire. The sight alone
makes the trip worthwhile.

The Guerita II cut through the calmer waters of the Sea of
Cortez with ease by benefit of the natural windbreak that the
East Cape coast provides. We set out a mix of CD 4
Rapalas in a sardine pattern and started to work the
underwater ledges and rock piles in search of sierra or
Spanish mackerel, dorado or tuna. We ran across pods of
porpoise working bait schools to the surface. These
working pods often hold schools of tuna just below that pick
off bait from the edges of the bait ball but today, we found
just the porpoise. Off in the distance, Captain Efren spotted
surface activity and turned the Guerita towards it.

Within minutes we were surrounded by thousands of
Humboldt squid. Denizens of the northern most portion of
the Sea of Cortez, these alien looking creatures have slowly
made their way down to the southern tip of the Baja in recent
years. With tentacles reaching up out of the water like some
kind of extra terrestrial meat eating flower, we watched in
awe as they fed on floating red crab. Just about anything we
tossed into the water was immediately engulfed by the
toothy tentacles of the squid and with constant pressure and
slow pumps and reeling, we brought them to the gaff.

Legends abound about the ferocity and strength of the
Humboldt squid and while many of these tales are true fish
stories, there is ample credible evidence of the potential
for injury and even death from these marine cephalopods.
Recently, a Discovery program featured an in-depth study of
the Humboldt squid in the Sea of Cortez. During times of
agitation, such as when these animals are being fished by
fleets of pangeros who make a significant share of their
income from the sale of the tasty beasts, they can and do
become very aggressive. One pangero spoke of his
encounter with the squid with fear and respect. While
working a large school, he lost his balance and fell into the
water. Within seconds, several five to six footers locked onto
him and began to pull him under, all the while biting into his
flesh with their impressive and powerful beaks. He
managed to free himself and make his way back to the
surface and into his panga, scared and exhausted. The
scars that he showed tell the tale all to well. He also told of
others that did not fair so well, never making back to the
surface.

While events like those have occurred, the squid are usually
no more than curious about visitors to their domain. It is the
frenzied activity caused by fishing these creatures that
creates the aggressive and often cannibalistic behavior.
Divers have been able to get up close and personal with
the Humboldt squid when no fishing pressure was present,
all without being attacked or harmed in any way. The
aggressive behavior and flashing of colors associated with
a feeding frenzy brought on by fishing pressure is simply not
a normal occurrence, but more a reaction to the situation at
hand. You need not fear the squid but make sure to stay
away from the business end. Tentacles with hundreds of
toothed suction cups lead to a bird-like beak with incredible
power. Ink on the other hand can reach you from
astonishing distances as my partner, Dolores, can testify.

While fighting a squid estimated at about fifty pounds, she
experienced the jet blast of a Humboldt squid firsthand. As
the squid was gaffed, Alfredo jumped off to the side leaving
Dolores directly in the path of what seemed to be gallons of
ink shooting from out of the squid. In a split second she was
covered head to toe in the slimy, dark liquid. Being the
trooper that she is, she laughed it off, wiped herself clean
and tossed her line back out to catch another one. By that
time we had been joined by over a dozen other charter
boats
and pangas and everywhere you looked, people were
battling these impressive animals. Great fun, an awesome
sight and great table fare was the end result. We left the
spot having boated 3 squid and cleaning the ink from the
deck of the boat.

Our next area of focus was just a few hundred feet from
shore working the reef structures that line the coast.
Catching eight to ten pound sierra on light tackle is an
experience I recommend highly. We picked off a few sierra
and even landed a small mako shark before we called it a
day and headed back in, all the while amazed at the beauty
of the azure blue and turquoise green waters of the Sea of
Cortez.

So if you are one to enjoy the ocean and the surprises that
such a aquatic paradise promises, fishing the waters of the
Pacific ocean and the Sea of Cortez in Los Cabos is a
dream come true. Finding the right boat and crew is of the
utmost importance in ensuring a successful and
memorable charter. When it comes to making that choice,
we cant recommend Jacqueline Lees Guerita II and the
knowledge and hospitality of Captain Efren Beron Zamora
and crewman Jesus Alfredo Espinoza enough.

To book your trip, visit their site at
http://www.gueritasportfishing.com or call 011-52-624-143-4465
and tell them Cabos Best told you all about them.

Richard Chudy and Dolores Peralta are the co-owners of http://CabosBest.com, a travel information portal for Los Cabos, Baja Sur, Mexico. An avid and frequent Cabo traveller, Richard brings his travel experiences to the web for others interested in exploring all that Cabo has to offer.

To reach him, email caborich@cabosbest.com or call 1-818-702-0876.

Copyright 2005 CabosBest.com

shimano fishing

Monday, 19 January 2009

Shimano® FX® RB Spinning Reel

Shimano FX RB Spinning Reel packs power, precision and performance in 1 AFFORDABLE PRICE! Well thought-out features with you in mind! Oversized Power Roller II line roller reduces twist from casting and retrieving and is enhanced with a tapered area on the support to help your line get onto the roller quicker. Meanwhile, DynaBlance technology eliminates wobble during the retrieve by counter balancing the rotor to enhance sensitivity and smoothness. That's only part of the story though... ... here's the rest: QuickFire II gives you easy and fast one-handed casting; VariSpeed oscillating gear for an even line lay that provides excellent castability and manageability; Super Stopper II anti-reverse provides instant hooksetting power; Die-cast aluminum spool; graphite frame, sideplate and rotor; Ported Handle Shank; Approved for saltwater use; Pick Model. Order Now! Model No.: FX1000RD, Retrieve per Crank (in.): 19, Wt. (ozs.): 9, Line Rating (lbs./yds.): 2/270, 4/140, 6/110, Max Drag (lbs.): 7, Gear Ratio: 5.2:1; Model No.: FX2500RD, Retrieve per Crank (in.): 21, Wt. (ozs.): 9 1/2, Line Rating (lbs./yds.): 6/170, 8/120, 10/100, Max Drag (lbs.): 7, Gear Ratio: 5.2:1; Model No.: FX4000RD, Retrieve per Crank (in.): 24, Wt. (ozs.): 12, Line Rating (lbs./yds.): 8/240, 10/200, 12/160, Max Drag (lbs.): 15, Gear Ratio: 4.6:1; Shimano FX RB Spinning Reel


"If people concentrated on the really important things in life,
there'd be a shortage of fishing poles."

- Doug Larson

With a last name like Fischer you'd think I'd know a thing or two about fish and particularly how to land one into your frying pan.But I don't.Never have.Even before giving up the fish-bones-in-yer-teeth diet for a vegetarian one eight years ago, I didn'tpossess much skill in the art of angling.Not for lack of effort, mind you.Oh, I was quite avid about the sport for some time.Avid but despairingly inept.In strictly statistical terms I was lousy.I imagine now that it took me, at best, 200 casts of my line for every fish that I caught(if you can call those little sunfish that look like decorative soap bars fish at all).That works out to a whopping0.5% productivity of catching anything beyond the usual glump of weeds, discarded fishing line, sludge-filled sneakers, or whatever else made up the less than idyllic underworld of Hamilton's Cootes "Paradise" at the western most tip of Lake Ontario.And that's just looking at casting productivity.When I stop to think of my efficiency in terms of time, my success rate at the art of catching my dinner was infinitesimal - say 0.001% of my time.

Yet, as I recall those days, I remember going fishing at any chance I could get.Why?What would possibly possess a guy to meditate over mere possibility from the crack of dawn until dusk most summer evenings?It certainly couldn't have been any great aspiration to become the next Bob Izumi on Saturday afternoon television.I clearly had no future in the sport.It couldn't have been the satisfaction of cooking up my catch - the quantity of which was enough to provide an appetizer at best ("catch of the day on a cracker anyone?")It wasn't even some familial need to perpetuate the long line of fishers in our family - as far as I know, most of us Fischer's were actually agricultural farmers.So why did I "fish" like there was no tomorrow?I guess because, pure and simple, it was a lot of fun!Pure pleasure.Simple pleasure.

There was the deep joy of anticipation, the repose, the whiling away of lazy hours, the solitude, the cheese sandwiches warming in my backpack under a 12 o'clock sun.There was the retreat from life's concerns to contemplate the things I really valued in my life - like freedom, like meaning, like a connection to the greater whole of which I am a mere small fry.There was in "fishing" a time and space for me to slowly acquiesce to the benevolent goodness of this river of life.Fishing, in the final analysis, helped me to say "yes" to my own life.Come to think of it, with my general ineptitude in angling, these other things must have been the real "catch" for me.

Now, as a vegetarian, I don't fish anymore.But maybe I should.I probably wouldn't catch anything anyway.Maybe I should just toss my line into the water with one of my father's lug-nuts on the end the way I used to practice my casting skills in my parents garden, fishing for two foot cucumbers (maybe that's where my vegetarianism started!).With my line snagged under some submerged log, I could reconnect with the seminal joy of those teenaged fishing excursions - my great foil for spiritual awakening.I wonder if I still have that old Shimano fly-casting rod?Maybe I'll dig it out this weekend and instead of packing my tackle box full of hooks and lures and fluorescent gummy worms, I'll fill it with some nice cucumber sandwiches, a soy shake and a copy of Vegetarian Times .How's that for a new angle on the old art? And now if you'll excuse me, I'd rather be fishing - wink, wink.See you on the water.

Peter H. Fischer is a speechwriter living in Vancouver, British Columbia. He can be reached through his website at http://www.fischerspeeches.com

shimano fishing

Thursday, 15 January 2009

Rapala Collectibles Limited 1st Edition Fishing Figurine 'Jim's Bait'

Rapala Collectible First Edition Figurine named Jim's Bait. Jim's Bait is part of the Tackleshop Series. This figurine comes with it's own Certificate of Authenticity and in it's original box. It can either lat flat or hung on the wall. It is 7 inches wide. This work is issued in a strictly limited edition of 3000 after which the master mold will be destroyed to preserve the integrity of the edition. Get them while you still can, before it's too late! NOTE: THIS DOES NOT COME WITH A DISPLAY STAND (ON THE BACK OF THE BOX IT SAYS IT COMES WITH A STAND BUT IT DOES NOT)


Due to effects of global warming and the massive application of quality nutritional baits, carp and catfish have been growing much bigger than previously ever imagined. When it comes to carp especially, this has caught out many anglers whose perception of the correct tackle to handle much bigger fish is not accurate at all!

The number of big carp hooked in the UK over 40 pounds has really risen noticeably, while in other parts of Europe especially in France, this sized fish is merely regarded as a baby at certain fisheries, where carp can exceed 60 and 70 pounds.

Heres my insights into the effects of using fishing rods which have not been equal to the task for big carp up to 50 pounds and well over this mark for example and for catfish to about one hundred pounds. I say these weights because I have been lucky enough to hook and land quite a number of fish of this size and have direct experience trying to play fish on a variety of different rods.

For me stopping power is the key with big fish. It maybe you can cast 150 yards onto a spot with accuracy, but if youre rod basically means you have no control over a running fish at all and are only dependant on the using the clutch on your reel for control, then you definitely have changed the odds in favour of the really big fish.

This can give you such problems that your fish of a life time will very likely be lost when he turns up one day or night and he will do everything he can to find any weakness in your tackle! Mostly this weakness results in having a massive adrenaline rush, extreme bodily shaking and an extremely sick feeling in your gut as you inspect your broken line. I hope this piece will help prevent this experience for you!

Extremely heavy, big sized fish generate awesome and even unbelievable power. Such forward momentum and weight alone are very tough to slow down when your fish of a lifetime is surging towards the closest snag in the water!

You need real power in the top third and middle part of your rod at least. Without this you are simply playing fish off the butt end and that is risky on most rods because butt ends do not do much! You dont want to be playing fish just off the reel clutch with no control over the fish. Any mistakes using the reel and you may pull out of the fish, break the line (or rod) or end up giving the fish vital extra line or stretch to force their forward momentum and get into the safety of snags etc.

You might argue that you need to play fish differently, be gentler with them and change the rod or line angle for example. Sometimes though you can sense when a fish knows what its primary aim and is going for it no matter what you do to stop it!

With the rod and reel combination some fish just cannot be stopped at all. I had this with a carp at Lac du Salagou in France where the rod was a 2 and 3 quarter pound test curve top and middle action rod and the line was 15 pound test. This fish simply ran in a straight line with the rod beyond its test curve until the line broke when it run out at the reel. And this fish was a carp because it was seen on the surface very early in the fight.

Another example of where power is needed is at Rainbow Lake in France in 2005. Here not only did industrial thickness sized 2 hooks get opened up and 15 pound rated brand new line get easily snapped, but very highly rated rods used, immediately went straight past their test curves and were absolutely useless and powerless to prevent some extremely heavy carp from running into sunken tree snags.

On this water, even where rods were tied to their rests and to the ground and Shimano bait runner reel clutches were screwed up tightly, a couple of runs even at over 200 yards away, were so amazingly powerful, that the rod and clutch still had no initial effect whatsoever in slowing the fish. The rods used were original Rod Hutchinson Dream makers at 13 foot and 3 and a half pound test curve, on 80 pound braid mainline.

It must be added that one fish lost in the last trip was certainly the big one which is now the 87 pound record. This fish made its way into a sunken tree and despite having it actually just 1 foot below the surface, it was impossible to land as the line was angled between 2 branches whose side branches made it impossible to net the fish.

Very possibly, with more powerful rods, the initial run could well have been slowed and those snags would not have been reached. However, most fish know to run directly for cover (dependant on line angles, rod pressure and so on) and know exactly where safety is too! When those carp are over 60 and 70 pounds and more, the right choice of rod is absolutely essential!

A friend of mine who is a much respected rod builder learnt from my lesson and designed his own amazingly powerful reverse taper rods for just this situation. (Fishing near entire sunken trees on a newly discovered Bulgarian big fish water.) His reward was the new lake record at the time, at around 65 pounds, was actually extracted from between whole mature sunken trees in the swim.

It needs stating here of course, that there is a line to be drawn between fishing in near snag situations with the safety of the fish in mind and using fish safe tackle, (like lead release clips for example) and that of fishing at all costs which may result in damage, or suffering to the fish.

In the Rainbow Lake swim situation I felt I had rods powerful enough for the job because I had been able to control pretty swiftly, a string of carp hooked in the UK of over 40 pounds and a good number of catfish too from 50 to over 100 pounds. The feeling was that if the rods could slow a 70 pound catfish on its first run, then they should do the same for carp of the same size when fishing near sunken trees. Was I was totally mistaken or what!!!

(Large water carp tend to move around very much and are in many cases very fit and lean fish compared to smaller water fish. If you have never hooked carp way over 50 pounds then it is rather like a 100 meter champion sprinting away from you with you fishing line attached the initial quickness speed and momentum is not normal!)

The rods used specifically for catfish these days, are to me much more like boat rods for sea fishing and really need to be! The test curves on them and their action require such devastating power, often to counteract the steaming run of a catfish over 7 feet long, but also the possible run of river currents too.

In my humble experience, playing catfish is never the same as playing carp, or most other species as you are up against; a curling backward swimming, bottom hugging, 7 foot long muscle! Therefore its horses for courses. A When hooked from the bank side a giant catfish equals a very physical tug of war. The word playing probably more applies to your fancy footwork and your feet are usually digging at the ground to stop you being pulled over or pulled in!

Its the same with a boat hooked giant catfish. I hooked one in the UK once which took me to every corner of a 6 acre reservoir against a strong wind too and never gave up. This fish has never been netted or banked and its my certain belief that this fish is the biggest in the UK by a very large margin... I landed the 2 of around (or over) 100 pounds from the infamous Oak Lodge and the power of this other fish was in a totally different league...

If you are angling for very big fish and you know your tackle may not be quite adequate, change it immediately. Its just not worth deluding yourself. There are many popular rod brands which are just not up to the job of controlling big fish like 100 pound catfish or crazy fighting 70 pound plus carp. They were never designed for that.

In the States for example, there must be countless waters which could hold new records with extremely big unknown carp and catfish cruising around in them, but because of various tackle issues and lack of angler experience in playing extremely big fish, very, very frequently these occasions when such fish get hooked, theyre lost. Such fish can take on mythical status!

I would look at the tool for the job extremely seriously and if you feel there is no suitable rod available for the situation and size and raw power of fish expected to be encountered then get them custom built. I hooked a fish at Dream Lakes years ago, at a time when a legendary estimated 70 pound carp called the Dolphin existed.

I actually saw it head and shoulder in my swim and very close in too. I nearly fell over backwards as my jaw hit the deck at the size of it! (It was just too big to be real.) I had photographed carp to over 55 pounds previously and had thought that looked big. I noticed it left no ripples at all as it sank. This was one very clever fish.

Just 10 minutes later as I still was wondering if it was a dream, (and still cranking my eyes back in having stuck out on stalks,) I got a take the violence and speed of which Id never experienced until one particularly incredibly powerful one at Rainbow Lake.

The fish just ran so fast and hard it charged head-first through every very heavy weed bed in front of me, for a distance of about 75 yards before changing direction, and leaving the dropped hook in the weed.

The following day, I easily landed the Dream Lake 1 catfish record of a mere 27 pounds. Again, the rod was great for a fish of 20 to 30 odd pounds, but utterly useless when it really mattered with a very seriously big carp!

Various highly skilled individuals and rod companies will do this for you. For example Nick Buss is a leading light in this respect in the UK and has a range of custom built rods which are in the top rank in world performance carp rods.

Top class rods have a vastly superior action and give you incredible control of fish, sensitivity and lightness and greater casting accuracy, and ability to cast great distance while play fish superbly at close range, among many other benefits.

I just wish Id got some before I went to Rainbow Lake, but fishing is a funny game...

The author has many more fishing and bait edges up his sleeve. Every single one can have a huge impact on catches. (Warning: This article is protected by copyright.)

By Tim Richardson.

For the unique and acclaimed new massive expert bait making bible ebook / book:

Tim Richardson is a carp and catfish homemade bait-making expert, and a highly successful big fish angler. His bait making and bait enhancing books / ebooks:

BIG CARP BAIT SECRETS! SEE:

http://www.baitbigfish.com

* Are even used by members of the world elite British Carp Study Group for expert reference. Gain from more understanding, expert bait making experience, powerful insights and cutting edge information; view this dedicated bait making secrets website.

shimano fishing

Wednesday, 14 January 2009

Rapala 1st Edition Fishing Figurine Goin' Upstream

Rapala Collectible First Edition Figurine named Goin' Upstream. Goin' Upstream is part of the Trophy Series. This figurine comes with it's own Certificate of Authenticity and in it's original box. It can stand on it's own or on the wooden holder. It stands 4 inches tall not on the wooded holder. This work is issued in a strictly limited edition of 3000 after which the master mold will be destroyed to preserve the integrity of the edition. Get them while you still can, before it's too late!


Before I get into this, lets just understand that I consider any jig 1/4oz or larger to be heavy. Catch 10,000 bass or so on a 1/16, 1/8 and 3/16oz jigs and you would also. When fishing heavy jigs, I abandon the realm of spinning tackle and move up to stout bait casting gear. This is necessary to transport your offering to nasty places and to get it back. I normally do not skip with a bait casting rod. It can be done but you must have an extremely educated thumb to prevent backlashes. I use Shimano reels exclusively. I go with either a Scorpion 1001 or a Calais Antares 101.

Contrary to many other anglers, I do not use a very heavy line 10 or 12lb line fills the bill for me and can handle most situations. I like Hybrid line. Gamakatsu G-Lock is also very good for flipping. I have used Vanish fluorocarbon and I like it also. It has great abrasion resistance. I only tie my jigs on with a palomar knot. I feel this is the strongest most reliable knot anyone can tie. I rely on Kistler Helium rods. I prefer a medium action rod. The lighter line and medium action rod make this a light line method when compared to the 25 and 20lb test many guys are using. Ive been doing a ton of flipping with a 6-6 ML rod and Scorpion 1001 reel. I usually do not go above a 3/16oz jig but it is a dynamite combo. It is sheer fun. Ive never broken a rod while fishing jigs.

Targeting Bass

I can flip, I can Skip, I can pitch. Which is best? Do what works for you. I am more effective skipping with a spinning rod so I usually do not skip with bait casting rods. My presentation is a cross between flipping and pitching. It is a kind of under hand lob low to the water that may be skipping-like in reality. When the bait hits the water, there is very little disturbance.

I am always searching for targets to hit. I will drop jigs into places many guys wont. You cant worry about losing a bait. If you do, you will handicap yourself mentally. Putting jigs in tough places can mean the difference between catching a horse and casting practice. I hit my targets from many different angles. This gives the fish a presentation it may not have seen. I see far too many guys drop a jig on a stump once or twice only to move on. I do not fish my jig back to the boat. Once I feel I have saturated the target, I reel in and cast again.

Strikes range from a mushy weighty feeling to an unmistakable chomp. I learned to fish jigs by forcing myself to only take them with me while fishing. I learned early on to discern what the jig felt like on the end of my line. Anything lighter or heavier was surely a bass. This is what I have come to name Weighing the line. I learned what a 3/16oz jig feels like in the water. This strategy has helped me learn complex techniques and has definitely made me a better, more consistent angler.

Lets talk about hook sets. If you are fishing a jig correctly, you will have very little slack line. It is a contact bait in which an angler must know what it is doing at all times. This makes for instantaneous hook sets and excellent sensitivity. If you feel something out of the ordinary, swing on it, hook sets are free. I set my hook hard over my right shoulder. It is violent, it is lightning quick and it gets the job done. I notice that very few anglers get the gist of the hook set in most applications. There is no pussy footing around here, set it like you mean it or go home empty handed. There really is no style to it, just speed and power.

Detecting a strike will come as a natural feeling in time and with practice. The time it takes you to detect a strike and swing on it is the difference between hooking up and getting beaned in the head by your jig. A jig is made of metal and silicone. A bass will rarely hold on to it for a long period of time. Scent and salt may help increase the odds by a half second or so but it is important to set up as soon as you detect the strike.

Rattles

Rattles may give the angler an advantage when the water is murky or cold. I prefer to fish without rattles 95% of the time. When I use them, I prefer the strap type of collar so the rattles hang down in the skirt. This way they do not impede with my hook set. One little trick I employ is to add a small piece of sponge on the hook shank. I spray it with a bit of garlic or craw scent. I think it at least gives me the confidence to be more effective.

A jig is a contact bait. It is built be used in nasty places and it is strong enough to wrestle big bass out of them. Many guys make the mistake of not attempting to penetrate deep into cover with them. By failing to do this, they decrease their chances for success. Youve got to get into the places where these fish live.

Although I am a light tackle jig guy by nature, Im smart enough to realize that heavy jigs definitely have a place in my arsenal. On the other side of it, dont just use heavier baits. You will be pleasantly surprised when you tie on a light jig n pig.

Craig DeFronzo has written over 300 articles that are bass fishing related within the past decade for several of the top bass fishing web sites and periodicals. He is the author of over 12 books and eBooks on bass fishing and is the creator of Micro Munch Tackle. He started a small bait company based on the belief that unique custom tackle would be more appealing to bass that are continuously bombarded by the same commercial baits every day. Custom baits and lighter tackle have helped him achieve success in competition. For more information on custom handmade baits and more articles and Craig's ebooks visit http://micromunchtackle.com/

shimano fishing

Tuesday, 13 January 2009

Shimano Fishing License Holder - w/Lanyard

Water-proof & Comes with a Lanyard with Shimano Logo


The Split shot rig is a finesse version of a fish finding rig along the lines of but not quite the Carolina Rig. Too many anglers dismiss this method as being too slow or a small fish method. The truth is that it is a deadly finesse method that can cover water as efficiently and as quickly as the Carolina rig. The split shot method also is a great way to catch limits of keeper sized bass. What tournament angler could dispute the success of that? Split shotting is a fairly shallow water finesse technique that works best in depths under 20 feet. It can be worked deeper but the sensitivity decreases as the depth increases. For anglers who arent confident in their worm fishing abilities, the split shot rig is actually nothing like traditional worm fishing.

This method is a cast and crank method that can be more easily compared to crank bait fishing than to worm fishing. The tiny 4inch curly tailed worms are in constant motion on the bottom so it might be even more effective than cranking because the bait stays in the strike zone longer. However simple this may sound, you can increase the effectiveness of the technique by seining the bottom. By this I mean using different casting angles and boat positioning to essentially saturate a grid or area. This way you can potentially present the bait to every fish within a determined area.

Not Just Another Carolina rig

The Split Shot may resemble a Carolina rig but it is different. To tie the rig you must eliminate the bullet sinker. Instead, you just crimp a piece of shot, two or three feet above the Texas rigged bait. I most often distance the shot about 18 to 24 inches above the bait. It is important to use only round shot without the tabs. The tabs will always catch on the weeds and foul the rig. Use size 2 or 4 shot. Make sure you dont fray the line when you crimp the shot down on it. I prefer softer shot to prevent damaging the line. Water Gremlin, makers of weights and sinkers for fishing has introduced its Bull Shot. This is a bullet weight or conical shaped weight with a new twist. Like its famous squeezable split shot weights that crimp on to the line, Bull Shot weights have the same premise. Here you can place your bullet weight above the hook in any desired length. Just squeeze it on and it will stay in place. Gone are the days of multi knot rigs. It is a quick and easy way to rig up your soft plastics. This may be the best alternative if avoiding weeds and snags are your concern. The pointed shape comes through snags with ease and takes this rig to a new dimension.

This is a true finesse rig. Using this rig requires an angler to scale down his/her tackle. A four-inch bait is about the largest an angler should use. Employ a size 1/0 or size 1 Aberdeen style hook. Rig the bait on the seam. This along with the Aberdeen hook is a straight shank style and creates a keel to prevent the bait from rolling thus eliminating line twist. That is the key to the natural swimming motion of this bait. Fine diameter line and light spinning gear are necessary for this technique. I use a 6 or 6-6 foot ML spinning rod and 6lb test for this technique.

Employ the split shot rig when fishing in depths shallower than 20 feet. Any deeper and youll lose contact with the bait. The split shot retrieve is slow and steady. Maximum bottom contact is essential. You simply have to keep the weight in contact with the bottom. This technique is perfect for locating concentrations of bass. Especially when coordinated to cover a specific area from multiple angles. Because the bait is always in motion, wind won't hamper its success. Wind can put a serious damper on regular worm fishing such as a Texas rig. The split shot rig is less affected by wind because you are constantly moving it.

Split shotting is deadly when fishing used water. If I'm fishing behind another boat, chances are that I am throwing a split shot rig to the water that has already been covered by that boat. The split shot method excels in heavily fished waters. That is the beauty of this method. One area in which this method excels is locating fish around uninteresting areas. Most anglers will beat visible cover or structure they see on their LCDs to death. While you can catch fish in these places on split shot rigs, the rig may be better suited for use in boring areas without heavy cover. These boring areas are usually passed over by other anglers and they likely dont receive any exploration because those anglers cant see anything attractive to hold bass.

One particular day I was on an 85 acre pond that was hosting a bass tournament by a local B.A.S.S. chapter. The water was crowded with 15 or so boats and all of the water was used up. Immediately I rigged a split shot worm and I proceeded to catch a limit of decent bass. From what I heard, the participants didnt fair as well. This proved to me how valuable an option this rig is. It took fish in water that was used by skilled anglers. This rig is a good choice when trying to locate fish on an unfamiliar lake. It is often the first tactic I'll try on new waters. When a cold front is passing through the split shot may be the only bait that gets consistent attention from bass.

Anglers must learn to recognize the strike on a split shot rig. It differs from the telltale tap-tap of the Texas rig. The split shot bite tends to feel like a mushy sensation or the feeling of added pressure on the line. Bass do tend to hold onto the bait a bit longer than traditionally rigged worms. The lack of a sliding weight for a bass to feel in its mouth likely is the reason. This set up is just more natural. As with many of the techniques in this book, it might be best to learn what the rig feels like being retrieved unimpeded. Because you will be bumping of bottom with it, you may be in for a tough time recognizing strikes. Just remember that hook sets are free and if you feel anything out of the ordinary, swing on it. One caution with this rig, because you are using light line, try to sweep set the rod sharply to one side of your body. I utilize a set similar to the Slider sweep. You do not want to pop your line by setting too hard with the tiny line. Bass seem to hold on to the bait because of the weightless feeling coupled with the small amount of slack line between the split shot and the bait.

Hand poured worms along with standard grubs, reapers and lizards work well on a split shot rig. One of the best worms for this is the Curly Tail worm from Robo Worm. This is made specifically for the Shot techniques. This is a tiny 4 inch worm that features some wicked hand poured colors. It has a curly tail that is rigged tail down to offset any line twist by being inline with the keel that the Aberdeen hook creates. The worms are scented and salted and bass simply do not drop once they once them up. Ive been using some of the new Cyberflexx baits that really float high off the bottom on this rig. They are very effective and this is a good way to seine the water. The floating bait opens up another dimension to the split shot rig. Now you can cover water above the bottom. This is helpful when fish are suspending a few feet off the bottom.

Anytime is Split Shot time

An angler should recognize the best times to use this method. I use it as a fish finding tool on unfamiliar waters. If you put an easy meal in front of any bass, it is going to tell you something every time. Obviously, if you are simply patterning fish incorrectly, the rig may not be of use to you. If you use it where they live, it will draw a reaction and usually quickly at that. I initially target, sloping primary and secondary points with the rig. From there, I move to small shallow humps, sand bars and depressions, flats and sandy bottom areas. Perhaps one of the best places to utilize the split shot rig is on bare or nothing banks. These areas visually dont look as sweet as say a submerged log jam or weed bed. For this reason, they are often overlooked and passed by most target fishing anglers. The truth of the matter is that bass will be in these areas and often it is because the bottom offers something that the target angler doesnt even know is there. The rig also works well when pulled over shallow flats, sloping points, sandy banks, boat launch ramps and sandbars. Try it in non-traditional fishing spots. Locate bass daily migration routes and try this rig. Many times when fish are spooky, traditional baits wont raise a strike, the split shot rig may be just the ticket to catching a bass with lockjaw. Target spots that other fishermen ignore; bare banks, swimming areas and shallow sandy flats are among the choicest of areas.

Gear Breakdown: Split Shot Rig

Rod: Kistler California Series 6-9 ML Drop Shot rod

Reel: Shimano Sustain 1000FB

Line: Super Silver Thread 6lb

Hook: Gamakatsu size 1 or 1/0 thin wire straight shank

Bait: Robo Worm 4 Curly tail worm

Craig DeFronzo has written over 300 articles that are bass fishing related within the past decade for several of the top bass fishing web sites and periodicals. He is the author of over 12 books and eBooks on bass fishing and is the creator of Micro Munch Tackle. He started a small bait company based on the belief that unique custom tackle would be more appealing to bass that are continuously bombarded by the same commercial baits every day. Custom baits and lighter tackle have helped him achieve success in competition. For more information on custom handmade baits and more articles and Craig's ebooks visit http://micromunchtackle.com/

shimano fishing

Sunday, 11 January 2009

Shimano saltwater fishing pliers sheath new

Shimano's fishing tool's sheath allows you to keep your fishing tools at your side. Durable nylon sheath will accommodate pliers up to 8" and has a leather backed stainless steel clip for use with or without a belt


Spinnerbaits are not just a tool for the spring and fall. Spinnerbaits can be deadly, if the right ones are fished in a variety of situations weather it be the East Coast or the West. The trick is to be able to distinguish which is the right one for the right situation? Spinnerbaits can fished in so many different ways, all of which, produce BIG BASS from north to south, east to west. They can be fished through the water column top to bottom. They are really a versatile bait if you know the little tricks it takes to fish them effectively. They can be fished many ways by varying the retrieve, weight of the bait, blade size, the trailer and colors. You have a bait here that can work a water column and catch fish from one to twenty-five feet, and because it is so versatile, you can fish it fast, slow, and in all seasons of the year.

The first time I discovered this, I was amazed at how many fish I had must have missed in my youth, by not knowing how to fish a spinnerbait here in the Northeast.

When it was October here in Delaware, I went hunting until the end of Quail season. Soon after 1976, I read my first issue of Basssmaster magazine, and saw that people were using this bait year round and catching bass. Soon after, in late December in Delaware, I caught my first bass on a "Stan Sloan" single nickel colorado blade,(with a purple skirt, with rattles on the arm,) by letting it flutter into a sunken tree, in ten foot deep, thirty-six degree water. I soon felt that sluggish pull on the line, "like a pile of leaves or grass", not until then, did I realize that I could catch bass year round on the right lures, with the right presentation, sound and color. It was well over six pounds, and was a different fight when she got close to the boat and saw the trolling motor. Since that time I have fished all over the United States, from New York to California, and found the right spinnerbait and the right technique produces big bass from all sorts of waters all year long. They key is to keep it in the strike zone, and most lures are made so that you can work them as slowly as you want to, while still keeping them in the zone.

"DIFFERENT TECHNIQUES"

I like to use the spinnerbait as a search tool, and kind of a depth finder, and bottom contour device also. What I do is check out the structure of the lake by bumping objects, and increasing my chance for a reaction strike right then. The spinnerbait will make a different sound bumping off different objects such as stumps, rocks, sand, and pea gravel.I also vary the speed often, and even shake the rod if necessary, trying to give the bass a different look, which is important in highly pressured waters. I work buzzbaits in a different manner also, which I believe is what accounts for some real lunkers that I might have otherwise missed. There are times when a spinnerbait is the most effective tool to use. When fishing the bait in heavy cover such as pads, I employ a technique that I now know is called fluttering by some anglers.

Basically what you do is to cast the spinnerbait out into the pads, and by moving your rod tip, and other parts of your body positioning, you maneuver the bait through the pads, and when it comes to an opening, stop it, and let it flutter down. Many strikes comes as a lure sinks.You should make a lot of casts to the areas where you really believe the bass are, or have seen them, as they can be irritated into striking if the bait is presented in enough variations and positions. Slow rolling can be extremely effective in deep water as it designed to imitate a crawfish on the bottom, or another type of bass forage. The trick to it is rolling it down the side of a sloping bank, a rock bar, a hump, or any underwater structure, and then slowly pumping it back to the boat. We employ the almost identical technique with a lipless crankbait with great success. There are also better types of spinnerbaits for different types of cover. C shaped baits tend to work better through heavy pads and grass, while a V shaped bait gets hung up more easily.

Riprap is another good area to slow roll spinnnerbaits. There is often debris mixed in with the rocks, and many times large bass are waiting in ambush for prey to come along, and are primes areas to slow-roll spinnerbaits. The spinnerbaits should be slow rolled over the rocks and such, and extra action imparted to the bait is not really necessary. It should crawl over the bottom, and sometimes I give it a little twitch. All you have to do is raise the rod a slightly, lightly shake it, and then continue slowrolling it back to the boat.

"DEEP METHODS"

When the bass are really deep I employ a technique I call deep pulling; its like a yo-yo method but a little different. I let the bait flutter all the way down, and then let it sit, then I pull it hard and way up near the surface and do it again. I use real heavy baits with Colorado blades for this, usually in a chartreuse, or a chartreuse and white skirt when I fish in places that have dying shad in the winter, but anywhere else, I use black, or black/purple combinations. I always add a little Megastrike to the baits.

"TACKLE"

I like to use a 6 to 6 1/2 foot rod for this but sometimes I like to use a 7 foot rod, on different occasions. Many times situations come up when a 7 foot rod suits the situation better that a 6 or 6 1/2 foot rod for distance and control. Most of my rods I use for this technique are in a medium heavy action. I really like a Fiberglass rod for these baits, but there are many new rods that are very good for spinnerbaits and crankbaits, made by G.Loomis, St.Croix, Kistler,and Shimano. Sometimes on the smaller baits I use a spinning rod with Stren Super Braid,or Power Pro, but the rest of the time I use a baitcasting rod with a Shimano Chronarch, with fourteen to twenty pound P-Line.

WHAT COLORS FOR WHAT BAIT

When I choose a color for a spinnerbait, a lot of factors come in to play. The first thing I do is pick a shad pattern, or whatever is the dominate species in the lake. I usually double up the skirts, to give them more bulk. I use blue and white, black and white, and chartreuse and white. Sometimes I use red, depending on the location. All of these colors give a good range of visibility under water.

In muddy water, I have always used the same colors, black and blue and red. The same goes for the nighttime. I like to use the forage in the lake if I can,such as rainbow trout or shad, and to make it appear injured to trigger that genetic response.

I like to use big spinnerbaits in the spring, when I'm in big fish waters, some right here in Delaware or Maryland, or others such as Florida, Arizona, Texas, and Mexico. When fishing strictly for big bass with spinnerbaits I add on a double or triple skirt for bulk and lift, and use really big blades. Terminator makes some big blades that I really like on our spinnerbaits. This year here in Delaware, we landed three bass in one day on big spinnerbaits, that went seven and eight pounds. Sometimes we even break off the tails of worms for trailers, and many times in the spring, I have caught some huge bass from ten inches of muddy water with a big spinnerbait with a trailer.

We have had a great response from bass in the Delaware, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, and Pennsylvania areas, using a double golden shiner skirt. The bluegill and shad patterns top the list overall though. Sometimes reversing the skirts on the baits presents a different profile, and will also trigger hard to get strikes. The spinnerbait isn't just a bait for beginners, although it is a great bait to break in a novice or child to the sport of bass fishing. But in the hands of an expert, it is a versatile year round bait, that can catch "HUGE" bass.

The new website for Steve vonBrandt is http://www.freewebs.com/stevevonbrandt

shimano fishing

Saturday, 10 January 2009

Shimano Curado E Cu201e7 Left Hand Baitcasting Fishing Reel

The high performance Curado reel is ultra smooth, makes effortless casts, and is available in a 7.0:1 high speed, 5.0:1 power versions. The new 200 size is smaller than the previous Curado 100D but holds the same amount of line as the previous 200DHSV. Compact and lightweight with the heart and power of a large reel. The Curado 300 reel will change the way you think about low-profile baitcasting reels. Now you can expect large reel performace in a sleek, comfortable design that offers all of these benefits: * High Speed and Power * Excellent Casting Performace * Comfort and Maneuverability * High Line Capacity * Ability to Handle Large Plugs and Swimbaits


Selecting the right spinning reel can be a difficult thing to do. That's why I decided to write a quick article on spinning reel selection tips. There are some simple things that you can look for that can make all the difference. Because having a decent spinning reel is great, however having a spinning reel that wont perform properly is a terrible experience. And the last thing that you want is for your spinning reel to malfunction in the middle of fighting a trophy fish. I've had this happen, and the profanity laced tirade that followed would have made a long shore man blush. Use these simple spinning reel selection tips, so that you don't have to go through the same experience.


  1. Match Your Spinning Reel To Your Rod - Whenever a spinning reel is purchased, on the packaging it says what weight it is: ultra light, light, medium, or heavy. You want the weight of the reel to match the weight of the rod, and you want the weight to match the type and size of fish that your fishing for. For example, if you're fishing for trout in small rivers and streams, you want to use an ultra light spinning reel and rod. Light action would be the heaviest in trout fishing situations such as these. This is also a great reason to not buy combination sets with the rod and spinning reel sold together. In most cases these combination sets are made with very cheap rods and spinning reels. It's better to purchase the two separately, so that you can get the feel and balance that you desire, and will work best for you.
  2. Stick With A Quality Manufacturer - Many people attempt to save a little money by choosing an unknown manufacturer. This is not a good idea. Some quality manufacturers would include; Diawa, Pflueger, Okuma, and Shimano. Any one of these manufacturers would be a wonderful choice. And you don't have to break the bank either. In fact, a quality spinning reel should be able to be found for well under 50 bucks.
  3. Pay Attention To The Number Of Ball Bearings - The more ball bearings a spinning reel has, the less play it will have in the crank. This makes a big difference to those of us who like to fish with live bait in the flowing waters of both rivers and streams. I like to have no "play" in my handle. In other words, when I turn the handle, I want the bail to immediately turn. I like to have no "play" at all. This normally means that I want at least 6 ball bearings in my spinning reels. Pflueger makes some quality and affordable spinning reels, for anyone who might be looking?

The bottom line is that these spinning reel selection tips should help you make a very informed decision, as to which spinning reel is right for you. Remember, a quality spinning reel should be able to be found for under fifty bucks. Breaking the bank shouldn't be necessary. Another great tip is to clean your spinning reel before the beginning of every fishing season. Remember, the last thing you want is for your spinning reel to malfunction while fighting a fish.

Trevor Kugler
Co-founder of JRWfishing.com
Trevor has more than 20 years of fishing experience, 15 years of business experience and currently raises his 3-year old daughter in the heart of trout fishing country......Montana.

Quality Spinning Reel Choices - http://www.jrwfishing.com/fishing_rods_reels.html

shimano fishing

Thursday, 8 January 2009

SYMETRE SY4000FI Shimano Fishing Reel




Gorgeous, acrobatic, and lit-up, Sailfish rank as the # 1 sporty catch of south Florida. But there is a lot involved in the catch and release of these sought after game fish, after all their not the best table fare. How much vacuum packed smoked Sailfish can you eat? So whats involved in catching the Sailfish? What kind of bait? What is the best rod and reel set-up? What are some of the techniques to use on the water? Lets start out and learn from the end result and work our way to the beginning.

The fact is Sailfish fight their heart out, displaying themselves in full view acrobatics over and over again. Did you ever run the 100 yard dash in high school? What happened when you finished? If you were like me, you stood there with your head between your knees and tried to catch your breath. A Sailfish doesnt have the luxury of sitting there and catching his breath, they will sink. So what do you do when you get a Sailfish that looks half dead at your boat side? You need to resuscitate him! Put on your gloves, grab his sandpaper like spindle beak, remove your hook and hold him boat side, preferably with the boat in gear. You need to revive him for 5-10 minutes before you let him go. This might take some patience, but the reward is great when your prize catch swims away in good health ready to fight another day.

The above scenario is a bit traumatizing for the Sailfish, dont you think? Not to mention a little novice. Most cases when a Sailfish has to be resuscitated it is because the fight was prolonged. Fighting your Sailfish on anything less than 20 lb. test will prolong the battle unless you chase down your fish. Personally I prefer to fight my Sailfish with no help from the boat, but I also have that luxury since I fish from a center console. My clients have on numerous occasions commended me for not chasing down their fish, they appreciated catching their fish all on their own. As an example, if your using a 12 lb. set-up, you will need to hold at least 400 yards on your reel, and you might still get spooled from your average Sailfish if you dont chase him down. Even if you dont get spooled what fun is it seeing your fish jumping 300 yards away from the boat not to mention all that line dragging in the water increasing the risk for it to break. And finally you might have your fish boat side an hour or so later.

Fast reels, Hot baits

One of my favorite set-ups for Sail fishing is a Shimano TLD 20, spooled with over 400 yards of Berkley Big Game 30 pound test, accompanied with a seven foot, medium action Oceanmaster rod. This rod and reel set-up has caught tons of Sailfish over the years and remains unbeatable offshore. Keeping 4-5 pounds of drag set in the strike position, most Sailfish stay inside of 150 yards from the boat and are brought to the stern within 20 minutes. I use Berkley Big game fishing line on most reels, it doesnt have a lot of stretch or memory and is easy to tie with, it also is abrasive resistant. With experienced fishermen on board Ill tie a 5/0 Lazer sharp Eagle Claw Salmon hook directly to the main line. You can bring in the fish within 20 minutes and the line holds up very well, and you get a lot more hits that way. You will need to retie your hook after each fish caught to be safe from any nicks or chaff on your line.

Putting the right bait on your hook is critical to your success. I have caught Sailfish on Ballyhoo, Pilchards, and Threadfin Herring, but my best success is the valuable goggle eye. ( Literally at $50. to $100. a dozen) They are a soft bait with big eyes and strong swimmers making them great baits for all techniques. You can catch this bait on size 12 sabiki rigs but only at night, thats when the Goggle-eye becomes active. You can find them around structure up to about 80 feet of water and around anchored ships. As soon as the sun comes up the bite is off unless there is a full moon setting as the morning light breaks, then the bite will last just a bit longer. So prepare to fish for these Goggle-eyes 2-4 hours before sunrise giving yourself time to find them first.

The Technique

Setting up on the drift.

As mentioned earlier, on my flat lines I like to tie the hooks directly to the main line, otherwise Ill tie a short bimini to the tag end and attach my leader, 10 feet of 40 pound test Seaguar Fluorocarbon with an Albright knot. This knot takes practice, but once you get the feel of how this knot works you will never change. 2 to 3 flat lines are usually deployed at 50, 80, and past 100 feet away from the boat. 2 down lines are deployed at 40 and 80 feet down. The down lines are rigged different since weights are attached and the baits make more line twist, therefore I attach a stainless steel ball-bearing swivel to my Bimini and then 8 feet of 40-50 pound mono attached to 1 foot of # 4 wire Kingfish rig. You might not want Kings, but sooner or later your drift is going to take you over their zone, so be prepared for cut-offs. Most of the time I tie wire to all the rigs because the Kings bite on all lines. I use 4-6 oz weights on the down lines. The weight can be attached a few different ways. I like to insert the Bimini twist into the weight then tie on my snap swivel. You can also take a piece of dental floss, attach it to the weight and leave a long enough tag end to tie to the swivel. You can also use the breakaway technique where you will lose the weight. You take your line above the swivel and insert it through the weight so a loop appears on the other end, then take a rubber band, put it through the loop a few times and pull the mono slowly so the rubber band gets stuck inside the weight. When a fish strikes, the pressure on the line will release the weight. Setting your lines for the kite is the same as the down line without the weights. Tie your bimini, attach your ball-bearing swivel rated for 75-100 pounds, tie 8-10 feet of 50 leader material to the swivel and attach your tag end if you prefer, to 1 foot of # 4 wire leader attached to your hook via a haywire twist. Then I will take a 2 foot strip of red or orange ribbon and attach it to my swivel on the Bimini end, that way I can monitor my baits much easier.

Slow trolling

This technique is more advanced than drifting. It requires dropping your baits back on the strike. Sailfish are very sensitive as they pick up your bait, if your bumping in and out of gear a Sailfish can come up on your bait, mouth it, and if your drag is tight the boat will pull it from his mouth and he might not come back. I prefer to keep my drags in free spool with the clickers on, or on a spinning outfit I will leave the bail open, attach a piece of copper wire to the arm that is attached to the rod and make a small hook to hang the line on, with a gentle tug, the sailfish will pull the line from the tiny hook in the copper wire and put this reel into free spool as it runs with the bait. Let the fish eat for at least 5-10 seconds, or until he takes off speedily, then put your drag lever in the strike position and reel down until line starts peeling off the reel. When the kite bait gets hit, the Sailfish needs time to eat just like above, as you reel down on the fish the line will pop off the clip, so reel fast to get tight before he jumps. If he jumps before you get tight, chances are you missed him.

Prime time for south Florida Sailfish starts from November through April when these fish are concentrated in 100 to 200 feet of water. On winter days as the wind comes out of the east it is not unusual to get 4-5 releases in a days fishing out of Ft. Lauderdale, 3 or more releases constitutes a good day. During the winter season be sure to present plenty of baits down deep, at least 50 feet or more down. We catch a lot of sails this way, it seems the top part of the water column is a bit too cold for them especially on those days when the winds are blowing from the north.

When targeting Sailfish, look for the edge where the cobalt blue waters meets the green water. This is where the bait usually winds up as these two currents move against each other. This edge always changes, sometimes you will not find blue water past 700 feet or so. Dont neglect this area, many times I have put lines down from 75-100 feet and came up with a beautiful tail walker. Pay attention to the current as well, a good 2 knot north current produces some of the best bites.

Captain Cary Hanna fishes the offshore waters off Ft. Lauderdale beach from the Hillsborough inlet south to Haulover. He pursues Sailfish, Kingfish, Dolphin, Tuna, Sharks, and Swordfish aboard his 2004 Donzi 32 ZF center console, powered with twin 225hp. Mercury Optis. He can be contacted at 954-907-0967 or visit his website for the latest fishing report and pictures at http://www.newlattitude.com

shimano fishing

Wednesday, 7 January 2009

Shimano Tiagra 16 Big Game Fishing Reel Cover New

Keeping your tackle safe and secure is very important to fisherman. This gear was designed to help you prevent any unnecessary loss of tackle during a day on the water. Protect your reels with Shiamno's new neoprene reel covers. All sides made of neoprene to help absorb the bumps and scratches. Design allows for reel covers to be mounted while the reel is on or off the rod. All sides made out of 5mm neoprene # Gold logo and stitches over shiny black fabric match the color of Tiagra reels and Tallus rods.# All reel covers fit perfectly to specific size of Tiagra reels.


Chain Pickerel,(Esox Niger), are a formidable gamefish, that are actively pursued by some, and despised by others!

Chain Pickerel can be found throughout the Northeast, and down to Florida. In some areas, these are prized as trophies that deserve the same respect as a big largemouth bass, in other areas, such as in Florida, many anglers consider them nothing more than a nuisance.

Many inexperienced anglers mistake this fish for a Northern pike, but there are distinct differences in these two species. The Chain Pickerel is distinguished by it's chain like pattern along it's body. The Chain Pickerel doesn't reach the same proportions as its counterpart, the Northern Pike. Most Chain Pickerel are considered large when they reach 3-4 pounds. A true "TROPHY," is anything above the 4 pound mark. The state record for Chain Pickerel in most states is between 6 and 8 pounds. Each year, in the spring, fall, and winter, large specimens are caught that are in the 4-5 pound range on average, but very few giants over 6 pounds are caught at any time of the year. The Chain Pickerel actually hit the best in the winter and early spring, and start their spawning process as water temperatures climb into the 40's. Unlike most other species, they don't make beds, and they deposit their eggs on strands of vegetation, sometimes mixed with sticks, and other structure. They don't defend their young either, they deposit the eggs and move on, devouring their own young soon after they hatch.

LOCATIONS AND TACTICS:

Chain Pickerel hit well in the winter months, and even through the ice. They usually cruise the same areas as other gamefish such as largemouth bass, crappies, yellow perch, and other panfish.

Pickerel will savagely attack schools of baitfish, or individuals, whatever is the easiest prey at the time. I have caught Chain Pickerel with Catfish lodged in their mouths that were too large to swallow, and they still were attacking other baits. I have even found Chain Pickerel laying dead or dying, on the surface with huge bluegills stuck in their mouths, yet at other times, only want a small bait on or near the bottom.

The best locations for Chain Pickerel in the winter is along points, with drop-offs near deeper water, and areas that contain some underwater cover and vegetation nearby. They will be shallow at times, even in very cold water, but are always near the baitfish, and deeper water escape routes. They can be found by deep water brushpiles also, due to the fact that these same areas hold other types of prey, and panfish, thus the pickerel aren't far away.

Contrary to popular belief, Chain Pickerel can be caught in the dark, but this is more of a rare occurrence than a standard rule of thumb. In the early spring, many of the pickerel will be in water near the shoreline, and emerging grasses, and other vegetation, gorging on baitfish, and preparing to spawn. They can be in water as shallow as a few inches, to a couple of feet. The easiest way to catch chain pickerel is on live bait. They like medium to large shiners, and big minnows. This has always been a standard fare for pickerel. There are other methods though that will take real "Trophies," and not so many of the more common 2-3 pounders.

The best way to catch larger chain pickerel is to use a small jig such as a shad dart, in yellow/red, or yellow/white combinations, in a 1/64 ounce size, up to about an 1/8 ounce. These are really small baits, and a lot of finesse is required to catch chains on these lures. The other bait that works well is a 1/16 to 1/4 ounce brown or brown/black hair jig. Both these jigs should be used first without any other bait, such as minnows attached to them.

You first need to find the areas that will hold the pickerel; drop-offs, near points, humps, vegetation, and other cover. You should rig this jig on 4-6 pound test line. This is what makes the lure have the correct action and depth that trigger some of the bigger fish. It is the same principle as smallmouth fisherman use on Pickwick. They use 6 pound test line, not because the fish can see it, but because it allows the lure to maintain the proper fall, depth, and action, that catch the larger fish.

I like to rig two rods, with a shad dart on one, and a hair jig on the other. I start by letting out about a hundred feet of line, and slowly trolling these baits in wide, 360 degree circles over the chosen areas. You will pick up leaves and grass if you're doing it right, if you don't. slow down. The majority of strikes will feel like nothing more than grass or leaves on the lure, but most of time it's a big Chain Pickerel!

I can't overemphasize the importance of watching the line! If the line moves, or does ANYTHING, that it hasn't been doing, then set the hook. You can't set the hook the same way you do with a bass. It takes a slower short snap in the wrist, while reeling the line up tight, and applying just the right amount of pressure. The drag setting is critical, since you are using such light line, and light equipment.

Most of the time, I take the anti-reverse off, and backreel. They will make some long runs and head to the deeper water on the bottom, and try to wrap you up in the trolling motor, and break you off under the boat as they get close. The only way to get good at landing them, is to catch them. Practice is the only way to get a feel for landing them on this light equipment. If you don't get any takers after working 2 or 3 of your best areas, then add a small minnow to the back of the lures, but go to a 1/8 or 1/4 ounce, in brown/orange or lime green.

Troll them the same way in these areas again, while casting another rod to search the areas, and impart more action to the bait to try to develop a pattern that they want that day. Pickerel are ferocious one day, and finicky the next. They are unpredictable sometimes, so don't give up. On a good day, I have caught 5-7 Chain Pickerel that were all over 4 pounds, and usually 2 or 3 over 5 pounds. I have caught others in some Delaware and New Jersey Lakes, that exceeded 6 pounds. I caught a Chain Pickerel in 2000, that won the Delaware State Sportfishing Tournament for the year, that was 6 pounds, 14 ounces, just a few ounces short of the state record!

EQUIPMENT:

You need 3 or 4 spinning rods for these tactics, in the 5 and 5 1/2 foot range, ultra-light to light action, with a good degree of sensitivity. I like G.Loomis rods, but there are other good light action rods you can use for this as well. They should be paired with a good reel, such as a Shimano or Daiwa, with a great drag, set lightly. But as I mentioned before, backreeling, with the anti-reverse off, is really the best way. I use Stren line in 4-6 pound test for this, as it gives the lures the proper action, and depth. Recently though, I have experimented with some superlines with good results.

BEST LOCATIONS:

Here in the Northeast, (Delaware, New Jersey, and New York), in particular, some of the places that hold the largest chain pickerel are Horsey's Pond, in Lower Delaware, Killens Pond in Dover, and the Nanticoke River, (Broad Creek), in Seaford.

In New York I like Lake Champlain, and in New Jersey, Farrington, Union, Assunpink, and Hopetcong, are among some of the better lakes, although there are many more that produce big chains as well. Employ some of these tactics this winter and in the spring on some of these lakes and I think you will be surprised at the results. You won't catch as many pickerel using some of these methods, but they will be BIG!

Steve vonBrandt sponsored by Gary Yamamoto Custom Baits, TTI-Blakemore, Okuma, and Ambush Lures. 1998 BBWC, NAFC Hall Of Fame angler. Reeltimeanglers at http://www.reeltimeanglers.com

shimano fishing

Tuesday, 6 January 2009

Shimano Freshwater Saltwater Fishing Hat Stone M/L New

The smallest necessities are sometimes the most critical for a day of fishing. These products can make a day on the water more comfortable and help you increase your fishing success. # Construction 100% Polyester. Features# Six panel medium profile cap.# Curved sandwich bill# A-Flex head band fits comfortably to your head size.# Padded sweatband for comfort.# Shimano logo embroidered on both front and back.


Many anglers wonder what the difference is between spinning reels. In all honesty there isn't a ton of difference, and there are many quality spinning reels available for very affordable prices. As a matter of fact, for ultra light to light action fishing (which are the sizes that offer the most "sport" to your fishing experience) it's probably not necessary to spend any more than $50 for a quality spinning reel. Some manufactures that produce quality spinning reels would include: Daiwa, Pflueger, Quantum, and Shimano. My personal favorite id Pflueger, but this is simply my personal preference.

The biggest single factor in picking out a good spinning reel is the amount of ball bearings that are in the drive mechanism (which is where the handle is turned). Generally the more ball bearings, the better. Why is this? Simply because the less ball bearings there are, the more "play" there is in the crank, and the less play there is, the better. I personally like having very little or no "play" in the handle of my spinning reel. To me, this play factor is the biggest single factor in a good spinning reel.

After this what your looking for are mainly ascetics. After all, you want your reel to look good with the rod your using, right? Not only look good but fit properly. This is usually fairly simple. If you have an ultra light action rod, buy an ultra light reel, and if you have a light action rod buy a light action spinning reel. This information can be found in small print at the base of your fishing rod, in case you didn't know.

Another consideration, that is again up to personal preference, is the location of the drag adjustment. The drag adjustment will be either on the spool or heel end of the spinning reel, and is a consideration. I prefer my drag adjustment be on the spool end, but again this is largely up to personal preference. My fishing buddy prefers his on the heel of his spinning reel.

The bottom line is that any of the manufactures mentioned in this article would be a fine choice for a good spinning reel. Problems usually arise when anglers buy from un-known manufacturers or try to be too frugal. I would personally be really wary of any spinning reel that cost less than $20. However for $25-50 you should be able to find a really good spinning reel.

Trevor Kugler
Co-founder of http://www.JRWfishing.com
Trevor has more than 20 years of fishing experience, 15 years of business experience and currently raises his 3-year old daughter in the heart of trout fishing country......Montana.

Here's some great spinning reel choices - http://www.jrwfishing.com/fishing_rods_reels.html

Become A Better Angler & Get $10 for your trouble!!!!!! - http://www.jrwfishing.com/signup.html

shimano fishing